Belgium Block

[SKWDMD]

Here on Long Island, Belgium block is a popular material to border asphalt driveways. I have used 6x6x8' pressure treated wood as an alternative.However in the past 15 years I have had to replace them twice due to insect damage or rot.Probably if I had placed them on crushed stone rather than the sandy soil the green wood would have lasted longer.

I have tried to find more information on how to install Belgium Block but have struck out. Does anybody know :

how thick the concrete bed should be?
should rebar be used?
what prevents the concrete from heaving in the winter and cracking?
what if a run of block cannot be completed in one day-how do connect that days concrete bed with the following days concrete pour?

how do you create the rounded mortar joints between blocks?
what else do I need to do to get a good result?

steve

[Wgoodrich]

First I need confirmation we are talking same language and product. I picture your term belgium block to be a cement block with wier holes same as any other masonry block only has a decrative face that is uneven with rounded bulges in the face of the block and much heavier than a cinder block.

Is this the block you are talking of?

Curious

Wg

[SKWDMD]

http://www.bridastone.com/belgiumblock.htm

http://www.eossobrotherspaving.com/d...ng_belgium.htm
The top picture and the fifth picture down demonstrares the usual application




The above links demonstrate the type of Belgium block curbing I am referrring to.

steve

[Wgoodrich]

Sounds like you have your answers per the links you provided.

However to add to what you read be aware you are placing this against the driveway. If the driveway is asphalt or concrete dig down to find the depth of the drive foundation [12" unipour or deeper]. Then match the footer of your block array same as the depth of the original driveway. This way you limit difference of potential of heave due to freezing. If the footer matches the drive footprint then the heave will be equal limiting detteriation of your project over the years due to a difference of potential heave condition.

This principle would also apply when adding a room onto an older home. If the house if set on top of the ground and you add on with a footer below frost the house would heave due to frozen ground and the addition would not heave causing damage in the movement. The need is to keep any attached add on structure to match the existing foot print for equal heave potential.

Hope this helps

Wg