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  #1   IP: 216.103.83.86
Old February 6th, 2004, 01:05 PM
sj-steve sj-steve is offline
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Default Rough-in inspection. Am I ready? (LONG)

First, my apologies if this is too long or with too many photos linked.

I am remodeling my kitchen and adding some can lights in the living room and master bedroom, and new outlets in the garage and den. I think that I have everything ready for the rough inspection, but experienced opinions would be welcome before I call the ciry inspection department.

Right now, the kitchen area is stripped to the studs. I need the lath (we moved some windows and installed a new one) and electrical rough inspections before I can put the insulation back into the walls and close them up.

The city gave me a list of guidelines for the rough inspection, but they mostly apply to new construction. One item that I am confused over is "boxes must be made-up" before the rough inspection. I am getting multiple descriptions from individuals in the city office about what "made-up" means. The best reply was: "Whatever the inspector thinks 'made-up' means is all that matters."

Here's what the inspector would see if he arrived today:

Garage - Two new 20A circuits. One circuit to a central vacuum unit next to the washing machine, and another circuit to the garage walls for power tools. All three have GFCI outlets. I also replaced the washing machine receptacle with a GFCI outlet. Also in the garage is the breaker box. The inspector will see new runs of Romex. Two of them as described into the garage. There's also a new 20A circuit into the den/office going to a pair of GFCI outlets on opposite sides of the room. One is a 20A circuit for the microwave oven. The last two are 15A lighting circuits. All of the new Romex is 12/2 or 12/3, but there's a 6-inch piece of #14 wirenutted to the ends of the 15A circuits to alert future users that this is not a 20A circuit. All grounds and whites are dressed and installed. No breakers have been purchased or installed. All black or red wires in the breaker panel are dressed and capped with wirenuts, waiting for the breaker installation.



Den/Office - Two 20A outlets connected to the Romex, but not installed in the boxes. (They are just hanging on the pigtails). The first is a GFCI and the second is wired downstream of it.

Master Bedroom - Four recessed four-inch can fixtures and a fan box in the ceiling. The cans are wired to 14/2 Romex, but hanging out of the hole. The fan box is also a used as a j-box. A run of 14/3 comes from the single-gang double-pole switch which is on a new 15A circuit. Black to the fan, red to the lights. In the vanity area there's a new single-gang double-pole switch on an existing lighting circuit. There's a new run of 14/3 to a j-box in the ceiling that will be covered with a 2-ft flourescent fixture, and a new run of 14/2 from the j-box to the vanity light. The vanity light is not connected, but the Romex is pigtailed through the Sheetrock.



Living Room - Six four-inch can lights, a fan box and a 3-gang box for switches and junctions. Switch one is the original porch light. Switch two is a new single-gang double-pole switch on a new lighting circuit (supplying kitchen & living room lights). Switch 2A controls four of the can lights, 2B controls the other two (I like zone lighting). The third switch, also a single-gang double-pole switch, will control a fan/light in the center of the room. The box fill was tight on this one, but I made it by an inch. As in the bedroom, the light fixtures are connected but hanging from the holes. The fan is not installed, but the fan's mounting plate is wired and hanging from the box.



Kitchen - Six recessed 6-inch can lights in the center of the room and fourteen low-voltage recessed work lights in the perimeter of the room. The interior walls are off, showing bare studs. There are new outlet boxes along the walls where cabinets and countertop will be installed. The new outlets are on the two original 15A circuits that supplied the counter outlets before the project started. There is also a new 20A circuit for the built-in microwave, and an outlet box on the refrigerator circuit for the gas stovetop ignitor. The outlets for the dishwasher and disposal were relocated - still on the original 20A circuits, and yes, the breakers are ganged. I installed a new box for two duplex outlets (the original is one split outlet), and a new box for the switch. The original disposal switch box was a switch+duplex counter outlet. I moved the box 16-inches left to the next stud (the sink moved 22-inches left). The box now contains the disposal switch and a three-way switch for the under-counter lights. The counter top receptacle will go into a new box in the original location. There are three new single-gang boxes at the entrance to the kitchen area. They are stacked vertically because that's the only way they will fit due to the proximity of the cabinets. The top switch will be a three-way for the under-counter lights. (California requires that the kitchen and bathroom areas be "substantially lit" with flourescent fixtures, and that they be controlled by the "first switch" upon entering the room). The second switch is a single-gang double-pole switch on the new kitchen/living-room lighting circuit and will control the low-voltage transformers that power the LV work lights. The last switch is a dimmer on the original kitchen lighting circuit going to the center can lights. As in the other rooms, the outlets and switches are wired but not installed yet. The 14/2 Romex for the under-counter lights is stapled to the studs and rolled up waiting for sheetrock.

Attic - All Romex is stapled to the sides of ceiling joists or run through holes in the joists where accessible. There are two j-boxes in the attic. One to split the 12/3 from the breaker box into two circuits: the microwave outlet and the kitchen/living room lighting. The other was necessary because the original 14/3 for the dishwasher/disposal wasn't long enough to be relocated. There are two low-voltage transformers mounted on a sheet of plywood nailed to vertical studs. These are serviced with a 12/3 from the 2-pole switch in the kitchen. The 12/3 goes into one transformer, then a 12/2 run to the second. All of the can lights have a 3-inch clearance from insulation. Usually by removing the blown-in insulation and replacing it with batts of R19. The batts are either cut or folded to provide the clearance around the lights.





Am I ready?
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  #2   IP: 63.164.59.214
Old February 6th, 2004, 02:08 PM
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mdshunk mdshunk is offline
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I only breezed through your post so far, but there's one thing I noticed I thought I'd point out. You don't really need to put your devices (switches and receptacles) on for a ruff inspection. "Made up", means that all the connections in the box are done, except the ones that go to the device. Grounds are supposed to be all connected, except for the pigtail to the device. Same for the hots and neutrals, if any pigtailing applies at a particular box location. Junction boxes should be "done", except for the cover. You don't really set devices until trim out (after mud and paint). They'll get all messed up. I don't think the inspector will care that you set devices, but you really didn't have to. Might be handy to have the box fill calc you did on the 3 gang box in the picture ready. The ruff inspection isn't like an IRS audit. Worst case, you'll have to fix up one or two little things. No biggie. I don't generally have to get inspections in most of the places in which I work, but when I do the inspectors are pretty nice guys (and one pretty nice girl). All of the ones I've delt with see education as part of their job... they seem very passionate about the trade.
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  #3   IP: 216.103.83.86
Old February 6th, 2004, 02:20 PM
sj-steve sj-steve is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdshunk
I only breezed through your post so far, but there's one thing I noticed I thought I'd point out. You don't really need to put your devices (switches and receptacles) on for a ruff inspection. "Made up", means that all the connections in the box are done, except the ones that go to the device. Grounds are supposed to be all connected, except for the pigtail to the device. Same for the hots and neutrals, if any pigtailing applies at a particular box location. Junction boxes should be "done", except for the cover. You don't really set devices until trim out (after mud and paint). T
Thanks. This is the best description of "made up" that I've heard yet.

I am actually at the pigtail stage in the kitchen where the walls are not up yet. The other rooms are finished and just need the rough inspection before closing. I am hoping that the inspector will give me the OK to use the living room and bedroom lights before the final.

The cabinets are arriving Monday, so I want to close the wall and get the kitchen ready for the cabinet installation.

Thanks again,
Steve
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