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Old August 7th, 2007, 08:56 PM
jdub jdub is offline
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Default Ejector Pit Venting

This may be a stupid question. But I have an ejector pit in my basement for the washer and sink. I do not have any bathroom in my basement. Is there any reason to have the ejector pit vented? It currently is not. I assume the ejector pit drains to the main sewage line but I cannot tell because the pipe goes behind drywall (there's nowhere else it would logically go to). I just wonder if the pit should be vented if it is tied to the main sewer line.

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Old August 8th, 2007, 05:47 AM
jdub jdub is offline
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I was mistaken...The ejector pit actually is vented.

However, here is my problem. My ejector pit has a funky, sewage smell coming from it. I assume that some of the sewage gases are coming back up from the main line into the pit. Of course some numb nuts didn't seal the pit lid when they ran the vent, drainage pipe, and A/C condensate pipe through the lid.

I can't find the appropriate lid at any home improvement store. I was thinking about trying a new lid complete with new seals and gaskets but:

1. I don't know how it will fit (and there are currently no screws on the pit to attach this new cover.) I was thinking of trying it nonethless, which leads me to my next issue/concern:

2. The hole cutouts in the new lid are in different locations from the existing, which means I have to re-route the vent and drainage/pump pipe. This wouldn't be a big deal except I'm not sure how to re-route the drainage/pump pipe. If I reroute it above the check valve, I will cut the 2" PVC and move it over several inches. But will there be sewage/waste water above the check valve? I assume there would be.

3. I've determined the A/C condensate pipe should not go through the ejector pit lid. I don't have another drain in the basement floor so I may just get a condensate pump and pump the condensate up to a utility sink and be done with it. I know it's not the most elegant solution but it's the easiest and a condensate pump is not very expensive.

Thoughts? - I'm particularly concerned about item 2.

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Old August 9th, 2007, 06:19 PM
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Wgoodrich Wgoodrich is offline
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Your vent is not your problem. Sewer gas comes from where the outlet of the pumped waste water is connected. You are supposed to have a check valve in that pipe to prevent gases from coming back to the sump pit. If you are smelling sewer gas you need either a trap or check valve on the pumped outlet pipe to keep the sewer gas from backing up.

Also if you have your floats set with too much difference or only use the drain once a week or so the fermenting in the water may be your problem needing more water pumped through that lift station instead of less to flush out the stale waste water.

Just some ideas

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Old August 14th, 2007, 09:08 PM
whoopdaddy whoopdaddy is offline
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Default Screw Down Lid

Jdub, i'm having the same issue. Found this on a site today:


or here's the quote:

Ejector pumps are installed with the same procedure as above with two additional steps.

Unbolt the lid. The lid of the ejector pit is bolted down with a foam rubber seal between the lid and the pit. Using a socket wrench, you will have to remove the bolts from the lid to lift it up. And if the rubber seal is too dilapidated to reuse, you will have to purchase a new seal from the hardware store. There are also seals around the pipes that come out of the pit held down by two screws that hold the pipes secure in the lid, as opposed to the sump lid that has the pipes loosely penetrating the lid.
Disconnect and reconnect the vent pipe. When you look at an ejector pit, you will see two pipes coming out of it. Because the ejector pit is airtight, when the pump removes water from the pit it creates a vacuum that would suck out the trap water of the fixtures plumbed to the pit, which would allow sewer gas to permeate the home. To stop this from happening, a vent pipe brings air into the pit to counter the vacuum, and is usually connected to the main plumbing vent of the house. It is common practice to have a rubber hose (looks like a piece of radiator hose) with clamps on it located on the vent pipe at the same height as the check valve, so that when you disconnect the hose, there is a break in both the discharge pipe and the vent pipe where you can easily lift the lid off. If there is no hose on the vent, you will have to cut the pipe at the same height as the check valve and reconnect the vent with hose or a PVC coupling.
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