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Thread: Stove and Dryer receptacles

  1. #1

    Default Stove and Dryer receptacles

    To keep myself busy (as if I'm not busy enough ) my parents and I are building a house in Wisconsin (retirement house for my parents, although it's probalby going to be just a vacation house). The house is pretty much done on the outside, so now I'm working on the plumbing and electrical. I've done a lot of electrical work so far, but I've never ran a circuit for an electrical range/stove and dryer. You just don't find any in Chicago. It's all gas. I know I have to run a 4 wire circuit to each, but what size? I went to HD yesterday and looked at some ranges, and according to the instructions they all said run a 40 or 50A circuit. Should I run a 50A circuit? I don' t want to buy the stove just to run the circuit. Also, what kind of box/outlet should I use? I want a flush mounted outlet, and I assume I'll need a double wide box to accomodate that (the wiring is NM with blue plastic boxes). I assume the same will apply to the dryer circuit also.
    On a related note (being that this is the first time I've ever used NM wiring, I was all EMT and BX before ) I need finish the circuit for the well pump/tank (right now it's just running on the floor). Can I use a 1/2" EMT down to about 2' off the floor, then use a EMT to BX fitting from there to the pressure switch? I know I need to protect the cable, and I want the wiring to be on the outside of the wall. I know I could use a junction box, but I think it looks nicer without a box. I want to run 1 single 12-2 NM cable through to make the actual electrical connections. Will this be ok?

  2. #2


    The code minimum for a 12KW stove is a 40A circuit. A 50A one is better, and what always used to be installed. If the run is short (20 feet or less), then 8-3 on a 40A breaker may be fine. With 6-3 on a 50A breaker, you'll be able to accomodate anything. A range receptacle is typically mounted in a 2 gang box. If using 8-3, you could probably get away with a large single gang box. Metal boxes are preferred because of the large round cable -- getting 6-3 or 8-3 into a plastic box requires some drilling or cutting. For the dryer, you want 10-3 and a single or double box. A single should easily handle the box fill requirements.

    I would buy the flush receptacles and covers now so you make sure things will fit correctly and you have all the right pieces. If the store is out of single covers, but has double wides, then go with 2 gang boxes. Watch those cover plates, as not all big holes are the same size! Finally, because this is a new install, you need the 4 pin variety of range and dryer receptacle (pins for 2 hots, a neutral, and grounding).

    I believe you can run the NM through the EMT as you propose -- I've seen it done that way before. What I don't know is if 1/2" EMT is large enough for a 12-2 NM cable. You need to measure the width of the cable (the widest part) and then treat that width as a diameter. Then see if 1/2" EMT can accomodate a single conductor of that diameter per the fill tables (and remember to use the single conductor table, not the 3 or more column).

  3. #3


    Most 12/2 will fit in 1/2" EMT. You do not have to consider wire fill calculations for the EMT if it is only for protection from physical damage. See NEC Chapter 9 Table 1 Note 2.

  4. #4


    I'll go and buy the outlets/covers this week before I run any wiring. Both the stove and the dryer will be more then 20' from the main panel, so I'll use some 6-3 with ground.
    I know the 12-2 NM fits inside the BX and conduit, and I only use the EMT/BX for protection. I'll install it like this next week. If the inspector complains perhaps he has another solution.

  5. #5

    Default Boxes

    Go with a Range or two gang box for your range and dryer. Do not go with a single gang box. I would use plastic only (Safe). They have range boxes with knock outs. All you have to buy with that box (range), is a two gang mud ring. DO not get metal!!!!!!! Plastic is better! They do come with kO's so it's not going to be a problem. Note: to get your range box flush, consider the drywall size, and rather you are using firewall. If you use 1/2 inch drywall, then make sure your range box is flush with the 2x4 (your mud-ring will stick-out a 1/2 inch). If you use a two gang box, then let it stick-out a 1/2 inch. With the two gang, it will be hard trying to get an 8-3 (or 6-3) in the wire hole. I would get a range box instead. The two gang box works great with dryer lines (10-3).

  6. #6


    When you mount your range box to the stud mark out where your range is going to set then mount your box to the outside third of the range area. Many ranges have a side wall that touches the wall and a middle back plate that touches the wall with two concave places in the outside thirds of the back of the range to allow the range to go against the wall. Other wise if you hit the middle of the range you will find you can't get your range against the wall because of the range plug plugged into the wall hitting that back plate. Take a look at the back of a range to see what I am suggesting.

    Hope this helps


  7. #7


    Thanks for all of the suggestions. I'll go do HD and look at some ranges. I was going to put the box 24' above floor level. I didn't know there was a range box. I'll look for it.
    The outlet for the dryer will be above the top of the dryer (probably 36 or so inches).

  8. #8


    When I said range box I meant recessed plastic receptacle box then range receptacle then range receptacle plate. You also have a choice to use a surface mounted range receptacle all as one unit just connecting the cable to that surface mounted range recetacle.

    What I was trying to point out was the shape of the back cover of your range designed so if you place your range receptacle off center it would hit a concave place allowing even a surface mounted range receptacle to be mounted behind the range and let the range slide to the wall.

    If you place either receptacle to hit center of the back of that range your range will not fit against the wall.

    36" high will place your dryer receptacle about 2/3 the way to the top of the dryer within reach from reaching over the dryer and still hide the receptacle and cord behind the dryer. This is fine because you will have a 4" vent holding this dryer away from the wall. Again you have a choice of using a surface mounted dryer receptacle if you like no problem.

    Either 8/3wGrnd or 6/3wGrnd for range

    10/3wGrnd for dryer

    Hope this helps


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