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Thread: New Jenn-Air

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    1,999

    Default New Jenn-Air

    I bought a Jenn-Air range to replace the old range which has finally expired. The Instructions say that the stove has to be direct wired. The existing wire is an aluminum 6 guage wire type SE with two insulated wires and an non insulated wire. In the main panel, the insulated wires are connected to a 2 pole 50 amp breaker and the non insulated wire is connected to the neutral. At the other end however, the wire is not long enough to connect it directly to the new stove.
    What I plan to do is to remove the existing 240 volt receptacle and install a 1900 junction box. I will splice the aluminum wire to a 6' section of 6-6-6- type SE copper wire in the box.
    Questions:

    1: Does the code allow me to splice the aluminum SE wire to connect my stove, or must I run a new wire from the main panel? This wire only replaces the "range cord" on my old range .

    2: If it is ok to splice the wire, how do I ground the junction box?

    3: The Jenn-Air instructions say the following:" 120/240 VAC 50 AMP CIRCUIT PROTECTION RECOMMENDED, 40 AMP MINIMUM REQUIRED. WIRE SIZE FOR 50 AMP SERVICE USE #6 60 DEG. C. OR # 8 75 DEG. C. (COPPER ONLY) THREE OR 4 CONDUCTOR.
    In your opinion does the "copper only" mention relate only to the #8 wire or to both the #8 and #6?

    Thanks for your help.

  2. #2

    Default

    8 awg aluminum would be too small to carry the load. In the wording you are being limited to 6 awg aluminum or copper or 8 awg copper only.

    If you have copper wire coming from the range and aluminum wire coming from the house then you must use silver alloy style split bolts that are compatible to aluminum and copper with a metal bar separating the two dissimilar metals. Copper and aluminum fight each other. YOu are requried to use an antioxidation inhibitor such as Nolox to deter corrosion on the aluminum wire. Then wrap that split bolt with filler tape then wrap that filler tape with electrical tape. Make sure your box is deep enough and large enough to install three of these split bolt connections inside that box.

    I am suspecting that you have a white wire and a green or bare wire crimped together at the end of that range electrical whip. If you do then you are fine just connect that white joined to green or bare to that bare wire of your SE cable.

    If you do not have the white and a green or bare crimped together at the end of that range whip then come back in and tell us and we will tell you what you will have to do then. I suspect you will find the two wires joined at the end of the range whip.

    This 6' extension would fit into the appliance tap rule and should be allowed.

    Hope this helps

    Wg

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    1,999

    Default Jenn-Air

    The range is set up for a 3 wire connection: 2 hots 1 neutral no ground. The instructions mention that if I want to make a 4 wire connection, then I should remove the ground strap which connects the frame of the appliance to the neutral and attach the ground wire to the screw used for the strap.

    I was going to use a piece of piece of 6-6-6 type se copper cable with two insulated hots and one insulated neutral, and splice the wire in the junction box with the existing aluminum wire. The questions remain: Do I need to ground the junction box and if yes how do I do this as per code? Do I need a 4 wire "whip" or is a 3 wire ok?

    Thanks for your help.

  4. #4

    Default

    In this case with a three wire branch circuit for a cooking appliance existing there is an exception that allows the box grounidng to be omitted. This neutral/grounding combo wire being the third wire of the branch circuit will be a current carrying conductor and you don't want a current carrying conductor used as a neutral touching noncurrent carrying matallic parts such as the steel box. Therefore in this existing three wire condition the NEC provides an exception from grounding that box.

    You obviously found the installation instructions. I did not know if you cooking unit was now set up for three wire or four wire connection. If you have that bonding jumper from the silver screw of the cooking unit to its metal frame you are already set up for a three wire connection.

    Often times a cooking appliance is set up for a four wire connection with the white and bare or white and green crimped together where you make the connection. This way if you have a three wire circcuit you leave that crimped connection together or if you have a four wire circuit then you would separate those two wires of the appliance whip.

    If you have no whip now and must intall one then a three wire whip from the appliance is fine for your three wire branch circuit.

    Good Luck

    Wg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    1,999

    Default Jenn-Air

    Thank you so much for your insight. I guess I have a plan now.

  6. #6

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    Good luck and let us know how you come out

    Wg

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