dcsimg
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Hot Water Heater

  1. #1

    Default Hot Water Heater

    I need to move an electric water heater about 10 feet into another room. I need to extend the existing wire cables to the new location. What would be the best way to splice the needed additional cable length to the existing cable?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Kent, WA
    Posts
    8,426

    Default

    Using the box currently installed in the wall for the water heater, extend a 10-2 from there. Splice the #10's with appropriate sized wire nuts. Your box must be 12.5 cubic inches or more.
    Mark
    Kent, WA

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    1,781

    Default curious

    At one time water heaters if not in sight of service panel, needed a disconnect(D/P) at heaters location. If still in code may want to keep in mind if locating out of sight.
    See if someone verifies this??? Out of date here.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Kent, WA
    Posts
    8,426

    Default

    Still does. Either need a disconnect, a breaker in sight of the heater, or a breaker lock out device.
    Mark
    Kent, WA

  5. #5

    Default

    The panel currently at the water heat is the service panel/disconnect. If understand correctly I will need to move the service panel to the new location, and add another box in the wall that is 12.5 cubic inches to house the splice. Also, the splice can be done with typical electrical nuts that are the corrrect size?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Kent, WA
    Posts
    8,426

    Default

    If by Service panel, you mean for the whole house, no that doesn't have to move unless there are other reasons forcing the move. If that box is a disconnect only for the heater, then I'd move it to the new location.

    The splice box doesn't need to be added unless there is no box there now, or the one there is too small. 12.5 cubic inches is the minimum. I'd go larger if you can.

    If you install a box by the new heater so you can run a flex metal conduit whip to the heater then it would also need to be 12.5 cu in or larger. You could also run the 10-2 cable to a 30A airconditioning disconnect at the new heater location. Then connect the water heater to that.

    I can't tell exactly what you have and what you are moving by your terms. If you are using accurate terms, I would not move a service panel (a panel with a bunch of circuit breakers) when I just wanted to move a water heater. Is it easier to originate the new wire to the water heater from this panel, or from its old wall box location?
    Mark
    Kent, WA

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    1,781

    Default

    with out seeing? if your present electrical conn to your water heater is junctioned in a Junc box at the heater, poss on ceiling joist with a piece of conduit run down to the heater.(could be numerous ways)(whats there now?)
    If j box on ceiling, then just extend circuit 10/2wground or conduit and #10 wires to new location. You could add a 30amp rated, 2 pole toggle sw as your disconnnect. Existing breaker in main panel would still remain as O/C Device.
    HTH

  8. #8

    Default

    There is a disconnect box mounted on the bathroom wall next to the water heater. I assumed this would get moved with the water heater. I think, I would need to put some kind of box inside the wall that would contain the spliced wires? This is the part I am not sure of.... What is the best way to join the wire that is needed to run from the old water heater location to the new location. I needs to be put inside the wall...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Kent, WA
    Posts
    8,426

    Default

    Use an "old work" device box. Put the old and new wires through two knockouts in the box and then push it into the wall. These have little ears you screw out behind the sheetrock to hold the box in place. Put a blank cover over it when you're done splicing.
    Mark
    Kent, WA

  10. #10

    Default

    The junction box is extremely easy to install and really is helpful for safely connecting wires. I just installed one for another project (recessed lighting) and I was very happy with using it with the covered plate. I think there are some great comments, but I would take the first post seriously, because you are going to have to extend the wires. If I was you, I would replicate the exact set-up by simply moving the wires, which should keep you within code. Good luck!
    ________________________
    An electrician should know a little about everything!
    Last edited by Newhomeowner09; January 3rd, 2011 at 12:28 PM.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •