dcsimg
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Carrier or Bryant

  1. #1

    Default Carrier or Bryant

    They're supposed to be the same, made in the same factory, ....

    I picked out the components I want and a contractor buddy got me his pricing and there was only about $100 difference between brands.

    Should I save the $100 or go for the bigger name?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Redlands, California
    Posts
    789

    Default

    I would go with Carrier. The are made at the same plant but engineered different. Carrier has a great reputation for engineering AC units.

  3. #3

    Default

    Ok, I'll go for the Carrier stuff. This is what I picked out. There is only a difference of 1 SEER between the two condensing units. My buddy said there isn't much difference in his cost, so I'll go with the scroll compressor.

    Rob

    Bryant:
    Gas Furnace
    355AAV060100 94%, Variable Speed Fan, Two Stage Heat, 100k BTU

    Condensing Unit
    187ANA048000 Evolution 17, 4-ton, Puron, 2-stage Reciprocating

    Condensing Unit
    180ANA048001 Evolution 20, 4-ton, Puron, 2-stage Scroll

    Evaporator Coil CNPVP4821ATA
    N-coil, 4-ton, Puron, TXV, Cased, Tin Plated, Upflow

    Thermostat
    SYSTXBBUID01 Evolution Control, Latest Revision


    Carrier
    Gas Furnace 58MVB100F10020
    Condensing Unit 24ANA748A003 Infinity 17, Reciprocating
    Condensing Unit 24ANA148A003 Infinity 21, Scroll
    Evaporator Coil CNPVP4821ATA
    Thermostat SYSTXCCUID01 Infinity Control

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Redlands, California
    Posts
    789

    Default

    Scroll is a little cheaper to operate, so you'll be saving money in the long run. Make sure the coil includes the TXV and not the orafice.

  5. #5

    Default

    According to the info the TXV is already in the coil.

    Now I just need to knock the hole in my block basement wall for the pipes. Wish it didn't have the requirement to be off to the sides of line projected up from the electrical meter. That pushes me too close to some windows so I'll have to go out a different wall.

    My buddy was telling me that when I remove the existing furnace, I'll have to increase the pipe from the water heater from 3" to 4". Does that sound right?

    Thanks!

    Rob

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Redlands, California
    Posts
    789

    Default

    if your increasing the BTU output of the heater, you'll need to go larger. Depending on the efficiency, you could have a PVC vent pipe.

  7. #7

    Default

    This furnace will be vented via PVC. I guess the problem is removing the heat load of the old furnace vent and only leaving the water heat to vent through the large pipe.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Redlands, California
    Posts
    789

    Default

    Your going to have a water trap for the PVC that you'll need to run to a drain. Don't dump it on the ground. The combustion condensate is some nasty stuff and is unhealthful for plants and other little critters.

  9. #9

    Default

    I need to read the installation directions again. I think they want the pipe pitched so the condensate runs back towards the furnace. I have a drain in the floor right next to the furnace where I have my dehumidifer empty into. Someday I'll have to figure out if its connected to the city sewer or if its something like a gravel pit.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •