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Thread: Ultra SX80 Circuit Board - Price?

  1. #1

    Question Ultra SX80 Circuit Board - Price?

    I recently had to have the circuit board replaced on my Ultra SX80 as it was constantly blowing and not shutting off. Had a friend of my brother-in-law, who owns his own HVAC company, come out and he did the whole deal for $400. I work on computers for a living and when he told me that the board was $320 ($70 for the service call, and $10 for a 'sensor', can't remember what he called it) I almost had a heart attack. I've been searching and searching but can't seem to find one on any site that is the exact one that I have. The model number of the furnace is GUJ075D14-3A. I haven't pulled the board off to see if there is a model number on the back yet, but the only numbers I got off the front are:

    FCC-1A (common to a lot of elec. components)

    It also has "Heatcraft" on the board as well.

    The reason I'm posting this is because I want to know what that board costs, wholesale, to find out if I actually got a deal or not. I was told that I probably did on the service charge, but my bro-in-law said this guy would give me a "great deal". I was even going to offer my web site creation services as a barter until I heard the price. I can understand maybe charging a bit over what it costs him so he makes some money, but he only had to drive 7 miles from his house to fix it and from what he said he's been doing a lot of business, so he's not hurting for money (whereas I am as I was laid-off for over a year recently).

    I may very well have gotten a great deal and that is truly what I hope is the case, but my gut keeps bothering me about it (and it's a big gut....lol).

    If pics are needed let me know and I'll post some.

    Thanks for any and all replies.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Redlands, California


    I'll talk to my supplier tomorrow and let you know what I find out. Just to be up front, I do favors for my friends, so I'm just am curious to see what your "friends, friend", did for you. I won't post a price, but I will tell you if you were taken advantage of. Far enough?

  3. #3


    sounds good...thanks for the help!

  4. #4

    Cool Its all about air

    I got two of the SX80 in one of my building, I noticed a lot of posting since my last visit. Everytime I've had these units act up as many of the posting describe I've found that the exhaust blower motor has some minor interference causing the vacume switch to open for a split second. A dead bird was the cause two different times. Restriction in the chimney of any kind will cause these units to shut down, repeat start over and over, have short runs from 10 seconds to 5 minutes or more and then not start. Opening the cover for inspection can actually get it to start. One servicemen describe it as staving for air. I have learned to start by first removing the fan and check out the fan wheel, the sensor hose and hole in the housing. It has worked everytime.
    Good luck

  5. #5

    Default wrong thread?

    I'm wondering if you're posting in the wrong thread, it's working now, it was the circuit board for sure. I was just wondering if I got taken to the cleaners or not. My issue was that it wouldn't shut off, ever. Unless I manually turned the switch off to the heater, or hit the breaker in the circuit panel.

    As soon as he put the new circuit board in it ran fine and has ever since.

    However, I do know there there is a "blower off" delay setting, I set it for 90 sec. What is the optimal setting for this furnace? I know the factory setting is 120 according to the manual, but wonder if that is what is best or not. It seems to run a bit long after the burners are off when it was at 120.


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Redlands, California


    You got a fair price. You by no means got a price break because of family, but you paid the fair market value.

    As far as the time delay, I would place it back to 120. When the burners shut off, you still have alot of heat in the exchanger that you can use. Place it on the longest setting to get the most out of your heater. At 120 seconds, you might only be a couple degrees higher than your house temp, but it's still higher.

  7. #7


    ok good, it was a friend of a family member so I figured I'd pay the right price for the part, just wanted to make sure I wasn't taken advantage of that's all.

    Thanks for the help!!!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Western Wisconsin


    A couple years ago , as a neighbor and friend *I* put in a control board in a furnace. It had the fan timer board also, like you have, and had lots of solid state circuitry and black relay boxes on it. Very complex with lots of spade connectors and wires going to it. I paid $104 for it at the supply house and threw it in the furnace for just receiving a hamburger dinner. THAT is a friend. It has worked ever since.

  9. #9


    Well it's happening again. The furnace will light, and run for about 10 minutes or so, and then I hear the burners kick off. Then it runs for another few minutes and they'll kick back on. Once the house reaches the desired temp it'll shut off fine. However, it seems if it's REALLY cold out the furnace is having trouble keeping up, so it runs for a long time and then eventually falls back to old habits of the main blower motor running and running but the burners never lighting.

    Figure it may be the circuit board again, but this time I want to buy/replace it myself just not sure where to go.

    Have a friend that was recently HVAC certified so I may ask him. Might look into replacing it come tax time (the furnace), just not sure what the cost might be.

    Any sites where I might be able to find the board?

    The numbers on it are:

    I think posted that earlier. Been trying to find it on a site somewhere but haven't been lucky yet. Hoping you can help me out here Phelps. I'll text my friend as well, see if he can find one for me at cost.

    The real problem is the insulation in our walls. House is a 50's house, with 3x2 studs, was built for military families back in the day so the insulation is really thin. Found this out in '12 as the house next door burned down ad took part of ours with it. Had to have half the house rebuilt and that's wen we found out about the studs. The rooms that got rebuilt seem to hold temps well, just not the main part of the house. It's a small 850 sq ft house, so ANY furnace shouldn't struggle to heat it. They also claimed to have replaced all of the vents and runs in the attic and put the insulation around the vent pipes (which I did see when I peeked in the attic).

    Also, not sure if I should put this in a new thread, but they replaced the attic insulation with blown in insulation and now the house is SOOO dusty...not sure if there is a hole or something where it's getting sucked into the furnace system or not. Has anyone else seen this after getting blown-in insulation installed in their attic? I do know that above the vents on the roof, it melts there first (snow) and you can pick out where the vents are situation from outside just by looking at the roof. So they didn't do a great job at covering those. Or they've sucked in all the insulation around them.

    Appreciate any and all replies, thanks guys!

    I did find a used one on ebay for $50 (14 day warranty), and another one that's new, for $188 (90 day warranty).

    The 'new' one is an upgraded version but lists my current board and furnace as applicable.
    Last edited by slundy; January 15th, 2014 at 12:55 PM. Reason: Found a couple online

  10. #10


    Ok, well I feel really stupid. Today and yesterday the furnace would run for about 10 minutes, i'd hear the burners kick on for a few, then off, then the fan would keep going, then the burners would fire up again. Over and over all night. All that just to keep the house at 68 degrees. I went and put my hand up by a vent and the airflow coming out wouldn't blow out a candle. So I thought maybe there was some blockage in the vent causing the low flow. Went to another vent, same thing, another vent, same thing. So I knew it wasn't a blockage.

    Opened the cold air return to check the filter and that thing was stretched so far into the furnace I'm surprised it didn't get stuck in the fan. Took it out and voila! The vents were now blowing full force, house got up to 70 degrees in about 5 minutes, furnace shut off and stayed off for awhile.

    I had just put that filter in maybe December? Early December. It was covered with white sandy dust, which is why I suspect there is a leak in oneof the vent runs in the attic that is sucking in the blown-in insulation. So that's next on the list. Since the furnace seems to be sorted. Yay me...our attic is small, and all the vents are along the walls so its' VERY tight area to try to get to them. Hopefully i can find the leak(s) fast and tape them up easily.

    It's wait and see for the circuit board, if the furnace works fine after replacing the filter (went out at lunch and got one, wife was worried that the furnace would catch fire w/o a filter in it), then I'll just leave it alone. Although I may just buy the new one for $188 just in case. Keep it as a spare (plus it's a newer version). Thoughts?

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