http://www.selfhelpforums.com Got Questions ? Get Answers ! Ask The Experts !! Help for the Do It Yourselfer , renovations , repairs , get that extra help on self help forums en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:24:30 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.selfhelpforums.com http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18516&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:52:03 GMT Hey folks,
Was here checking on a dryer "hum" when off, and saw the thread on strapping
the pipes around the water heater (gas). Now that i have, I am getting light shocks from the plumbing fixtures. Used to only get em on anything plugged in or when hand gets near plugs.

Went out to box, (1890's house, wired in 20's?) and looks like it was upgraded in the 60's. Aluminum woven grounds on the main box, prob from stove.
Drip loop in main box, but didn't look up.
All connections on bussbar Nue/Grnd tightened, and not too crusty.

Sub box has add on circuits that has all my electronics on it, and also goes out to shed that has split 2 wire circuit with insulators on it.
Sub does not have split N/grnd bars, so got an add on bar to make grnds (2 only) on sep buses, and run a seperate ground back through to main box.
Sub also has shared N on 3 separate circuits, with no ground coming back, this is the add on that looks like it is going to the electronics, and shed circuits.

Also got a ground rod to pound in next to box, as the small ground dissapearing into the wall appears to go to plumbing main.
Only other ground is old phone box, and a sm clamp on for SatTv(neither working, both too plumbing) should i dissconnect phone line ground for galvanic? (not using)
It is grounded to one end of water heater pipe.

Other prob is the meter wheel is turning once a minute, with only 2 clockradios, and 5 EL nightlights on. (everything else except stove and washer/dryer on power strips.) No wall warts not on power strips.

So how do i test these circuits for loose N?
Load the end of the run if i can find it, and start working my way toward box?
How do i test for nicked insul in exterior conduit, if can't reach ground?

I am renter, not owner.

Have a good meter, but not sure if the brains to operate it. ]]> Electrical - Existing Home morganism http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18516 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18515&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:41:20 GMT I have been told that if I have more than six breakers or disconnects in a switchboard that I need a main breaker. The switchboard is 575 volts, 2000 amp bus. A main breaker would increase my cost significantly. 230.71 mentions the max number of disconnects but it doesn't say I need a main breaker.

Can anyone offer me some help? ]]> Electrical Code - USA Paul Kluesner http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18515 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18513&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:34:08 GMT While viewing the forums through Internet Explorer today, my anti-virus software is now regularly detecting and quarantining something referred to as "Trogan-Clicker.JS.Iframe.au".

Since I'm not browsing any other sites, that made me wonder what's up. Please advise. Thanks. ]]> Help on Using Our Site or Forums lc1983 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18513 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18512&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:28:36 GMT I plan on replacing the existing toggle switch for our bathroom fan with an electronic timer. The existing metal box doesn't look that deep and I'm thinking that the wires might get a bit crowded in there, given the depth of the electronic timer (with 5, 10, 15 and 30 minute buttons) from Home Depot that I plan on buying/using here in Alberta, Canada.

So, assuming that I wanted the flexibility of having a timer switch beside an occupancy sensor within the same metal switch box, are there any rules of thumb as to the depth/type of metal box to use?

Also, I'm ok with cutting/replacing/taping the drywall, as I need to repaint the bathroom anyway. Helpful suggestions much appreciated. Thanks. ]]> Electrical - Existing Home lc1983 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18512 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18511&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:52:09 GMT I connected my washer sewer water line to the one under the sink in the kitchen. Both drain well, however when the sink is full and the garbage disposal is ON water goes down and sideways in the the washer line upwards and overflows out of the wall box. This is only happening with a full sink and... I connected my washer sewer water line to the one under the sink in the kitchen. Both drain well, however when the sink is full and the garbage disposal is ON water goes down and sideways in the the washer line upwards and overflows out of the wall box. This is only happening with a full sink and garbage dispoasl on ON. Do garbage disposals generate a downward pressure? ]]> Plumbing - Existing Home andreadebiase http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18511 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18510&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:01:51 GMT I am installing an outdoor wood furnace, The one my son in law had installed uses 3/4 inch pex tubing and I am wondering if I could use the 3/4 inch black plastic pipe like I used in my well and water supply? What kind of heat will the black stuff take? Thanks I am installing an outdoor wood furnace, The one my son in law had installed uses 3/4 inch pex tubing and I am wondering if I could use the 3/4 inch black plastic pipe like I used in my well and water supply? What kind of heat will the black stuff take?
Thanks ]]> Bull http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18510 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18509&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:22:24 GMT I need help wiring 3 lights to one switch at the end of the run...a switch loop. I currently have power entering L1 via 12-2 romex. After L2 and L3, I have 12-2 romex in attic to switch. How do I connect L2 and L3 to switch loop.

I'm a pretty good DIY except this screw up. Thanks ]]> Electrical Code - USA ravalynda http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18509 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18508&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:14:26 GMT after reading other posts, I replaced the coupling but that didn't fix it. It will spin if empty and will spin with a very small load if I help get it started by spinning the drum several times. ]]> Appliance Repair mikeb67 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18508 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18507&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:29:53 GMT My My sister inlaw puts out a big spread of Xmas lights. In the past she has been using extension cords but the circuit breakers will trip for one reason or another I finally convinced her to install GFI outlets outside which might stop the problem Question She wants to place 3 GFI outlets on... My

My sister inlaw puts out a big spread of Xmas lights. In the past she has been using extension cords but the circuit breakers will trip for one reason or another
I finally convinced her to install GFI outlets outside which might stop the problem

Question

She wants to place 3 GFI outlets on one side the house.
Are 3 really needed?
If I put 3 GFIs than I would run them is series to the CB panel
It this the proper to do it?

For Xmass lights outside, would you recomond a 15 amp GFI 14/2 wire and a 15 amp seperate circuit

or

For Xmass lights outside, would you recomond a 20 amp GFI 12/2 wire and a 20 amp seperate circuit

Thanks
RAD41 ]]> Electrical Code - USA rad41 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18507 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18506&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:10:18 GMT Hey guys, Iam considering an engine rebuild on this unit SER# EZGA-1169699 I am a bit concerned, I have not tried it before, I do have all winter to get er done, and was wondering if I could get my hands on the break down as well as any other info i may need to acheive sucsess, or should I leave it... Hey guys, Iam considering an engine rebuild on this unit SER# EZGA-1169699
I am a bit concerned, I have not tried it before, I do have all winter to get er done, and was wondering if I could get my hands on the break down as well as any other info i may need to acheive sucsess, or should I leave it for the experts. I do have a fully equipped shop including honing tool, ring compresser, valve removal and installation tools. Any way let me know if there is any HELP out there. :hmmmm2:
Happy Thanksgiving to my US freinds. :dancing2:
MJ ]]> Small Engines MJ CORMIER http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18506 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18505&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 15:00:29 GMT first, yes the model number is correct and no you most likely won't find it apparently. which is annoying in itself. Bought at Sams Club. WI USA BTW.

First what works.
Door light and idiot power light.

Now what doesn't work:
Everything else

Now what I broke and replaced (most guides tell you to check for continuity with this part but but it seems mine has resistance so continuity will fail, would like verification on this) WARNING, don't ever try to disassemble this part ;):
Defrost timer (so I now have a new timer that doesn't turn)

Only logical thing (to me, which seems to be a hit and miss lately) seems to be a faulty temp control.
ANYONE have any wiring diagrams for this freezer (or any similar model).
Any help on where to go next? Can I bypass certain parts to test other parts? It's 9 years old and I would prefer to jump start the compressor to make sure it didn't fail. I also don't want to just replace part after part. ]]> Appliance Repair jeffkrol http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18505 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18504&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 12:36:43 GMT I had to tear a couple plaster/lathe walls down in my bedroom closet, so before sheetrocking I decided to add a light to the ceiling. It is installed and working, with a new single pole switch on the wall. I was cleaning up the junction where I tapped into the power in the basement, and I... I had to tear a couple plaster/lathe walls down in my bedroom closet, so before sheetrocking I decided to add a light to the ceiling. It is installed and working, with a new single pole switch on the wall.

I was cleaning up the junction where I tapped into the power in the basement, and I realized that I tapped into a 20-amp circuit (I thought it was 15). So now I have about 20 feet of 14 AWG romex, with a 15-amp switch halfway and a single bulb light fixture at the end.

I know this is technically wrong, but is it unsafe, since this only feeds 1 switch & light? I don't have any convenient 15-amp circuit wiring too nearby to tap into, but I can do it if this poses a hazard. re-running 12-AWG wire to the switch and light would be even more difficult.

Thoughts? Thanks. ]]> Electrical - Existing Home secutanudu http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18504 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18502&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:30:26 GMT I stopped hitting the books after this thread:
http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=17848

For some reason I lost interest!!! Who knows, maybe I will start again, or maybe I want. Maybe I'll just say the hell with electrical all together!! Depends!!! ]]> Electrical Exam Preparations Ohm1 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18502 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18501&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 07:13:57 GMT Hi. I have a bedroom that's becoming my office, and I find that there's not enough amperage.

I can bring the V down to 99 (!) with a laser printer etc.

Due to the layout of the house, (I believe) it is impractical to pull heavier gauge wiring.

I have a closet all along one end of the room, whose left wall seems to be the ONLY place to go from 2nd floor through first to the basement, to bring up power.

Assuming I can bring a circuit or two to the end of the closet, and that I can put conduit inside it to the wall needing power, I am looking for ideas that do NOT go "into" the walls, but bring power to two adjacent walls.


I could just run outlet strips along the walls, but I'm looking for something more "aesthetic" and/or "tecchie".

Background: The 2" baseboard and quarter-round is currently removed.

One thought -- incomplete -- that I have, is to place such outlet strips along the floor, facing up, against the wall board (validating clearance for various cords, as I saw a post about allowing spacing below a cabinet when putting in an outlet strip).

THEN I'm thinking of a "hollow" baseboard, or if you will, 3" (for ex.) wood, which would be attached to the floor in front of the outlets, by piano hinges, and would flip back against the wall (possibly with small super magnets and corresponding flush nail heads in the wall).

OK, outlets and a way to cover them up ... I'd have to add "notches" -- perhaps one above each outlet - to let cords out.

Visualizing this, I have this nice baseboard, all full of notches. Not a pretty mental sight.

Another alternative: a "boxy" baseboard, similar to above, that I can run say Ethernet, cable TV, maybe some day even fibre, with outlet strips facing UP forming the TOP of the box.

That way the look is somewhat "clean", though of course broken up by the cords that are plugged in. (I'm thinking of some sort of coverup for unused outlets).


ANOTHER thought - pretty scary - Slightly electrical related but also carpentry.

Find a way - perhaps by combining smaller outlet strips, each flipped 180° from the previous) at table-top or call it chair rail height around the 2 walls where I want power.

THEN, between outlets, on the bottom side, have say 1x1's, and mount "wainscotting" to that - boards that go to the floor -

How does all this work, architecturally? Well, the wainscotting is actually a TABLE TOP.

You (invisibly) hinge the wainscotting from the boards below the outlet strips, and due to its being 1" off the wall, have folding legs underneath it (against the wall when not in use).

Need a work area? Take a section - say 3" - which is one "desk", and pivot it up, via the hinges, until level, then unfold the legs and lock in place (details to be worked out).

Just like that, you've turned a piece of the "wall" into a table. With the outlet strip along the back of it, the facing-up outlets are ready to take lamp or laptop power cords, etc. And should you need a paper shreader or larger device, the downward-facing outlets can accommodate it, out of sight, because they are "under" the table.

___________
Hope you get my drift. I'm looking for some ideas to make good use of a smallish room, to get power there in a nice modular changeable way, with room for networking and "who knows what" (say, some phone wire going to a remote PIC computer which monitors if someone left the garage door open -- for example).

If you have any thoughts, I'd appreciate hearing from you!

P.S. I fully wired my own washer and dryer in my previous house, including adding a small 2-breaker box near the units, etc. It all passed inspection, so I'm not afraid to take such things on.

______________
Ward Christensen
Inventor/programmer of world's first BBS (With buddy Randy Suess doing the HW); Author/inventor of "Xmodem" file transfer protocol. ]]> Electrical - Existing Home WardXmodem http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18501 http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18500&goto=newpost Wed, 18 Nov 2009 04:46:09 GMT Hi, I'm remodelling a room.

Nothing is broken.

I wanted to post for some suggestions and feedback on creative ways to electrify a room, etc.

I kept staring at the categories, and realized there was none for remodelling. Only for "electrical code" and etc.

THEN I realized I would have to put it incorrectly, under "repair" if I wanted to find a place to post questions etc about an existing house, remodelling, etc.

Just a thought.

Ward Christensen, inventor of BBSs(*), and Xmodem file xfer protocol (Yah, stuff from the way (way!) back machine

* Randy Suess, HW, Ward Christensen, SW/Design ]]> Suggestions WardXmodem http://www.selfhelpforums.com/showthread.php?t=18500