roofing questions?

[Ironman1079]

I made a post a good week ago about stripping my roof of 2 layers and reshingling it.
well we stripped the back side and i shingled up to about 3 feet from the ridge.
i made a couple errors since this was my first time roofing.
i started the shingles with them hanging over the left side drip edge by about 3/4", but when i get to the right side of the roof, the notches in the shingles lie exactly on the edge of the drip edge, so if i leave a 3/4" overhang, there is a 1/2" peice that will eventually rip off due to the weather.
Is there any way to correct this so it wont happen on the front side of the garage?
if this is unclear, let me know and i will describe it better.
thanks.

also, what type of tool can i use to cut the shingles on the ends so they are all straight?
thanks.

[mdshunk]

also, what type of tool can i use to cut the shingles on the ends so they are all straight?
thanks.
Typically, guys snap a chalk line and use either a hook blade in the utility knife, or a large pair of tin snips.

[Wgoodrich]

Your sides are on a pitched roof area that flows with the gravity. As long as the drip slot is lapped over the roof edge an inch or so then you may cut at the drip slot leaving a bit of bare roof edge exposed.

Some always cut even with edge of roof edge and some cut leaving a bit of roof edge exposed.

You should be fine either way.

Good Luck

Wg

[Ironman1079]

As long as the drip slot is lapped over the roof edge an inch or so then you may cut at the drip slot leaving a bit of bare roof edge exposed.



Wg

can you describe this alittle differently, i am alittle lost, but thanks for the reply....jr

[AllanJ]

Cut the tabs and notches off of a few shingles. Fasten these approx. 3' long pieces vertically along the roof edge in question, with the 3/4 inch or whatever overhang. These together with the regular shingles on top regardless of notch position will cover the roof all the way to the edge and support any otherwise loose pieces. You can use roofing cement to prevent tiny pieces put there for looks from blowing off in the wind.

Since a properly done roof has no part of the tar paper under the shingles visible from above, no part of the aforementioned vertically fastened strips will be similarly visible.

When you do the other side, practice fit the first row of shingles to see where the notches line up. You could put an extra 1/8'th inch side gap between each shingle and the next so everything looks good, instead of doing all the workarounds at one roof edge.

Some roofers start from a vertical center line of the roof and work towards the sides so everything is symmetric.

[Wgoodrich]

Everyone is approximately saying the same thing. You are probably being too critical of yourself.

The black paper is to the edge of the flyrafter/decking on the sides of the roof. Then the roof edge also laps back over the paper and decking from the roof edge in. The roofing is brought out to the outside edge of the roof edge normally regardless where the drip slot land you are still covered by the layer of shingles under the top layer being half lapped same as the rest of the roof.

MDshunk said use a hook blade box knife. Just cut your shingle even with the outside edge of the roof edge on teh sides of the roof and ignore the drip slot where it lands. If your tab after the drip slot is so thin it won't hold without tearing of so be it no problem and little notice. Leaking is not a problem to be concerned about over that roof edge.


Good Luck

Wg

[Ironman1079]

when i applied the shingles on the back side, i noticed that they were not totally flat, but were wrinkly.
i know the tar melts in warm weather and my tar paper was tight.

is this normal after laying them?

[Ironman1079]

The black paper is to the edge of the flyrafter/decking on the sides of the roof. Then the roof edge also laps back over the paper and decking from the roof edge in. .




Wg

are you saying the drip edge goes over the tar paper or under it?

[AllanJ]

are you saying the drip edge goes over the tar paper or under it?
Put the side drip edges on top of the tar paper. Put the lower horizontal drip edge under the tar paper.

After several afternoons of summer sun the shingles should flatten out better.

[Ironman1079]

Put the side drip edges on top of the tar paper. Put the lower horizontal drip edge under the tar paper.

After several afternoons of summer sun the shingles should flatten out better.

what could cause the shingles to be wavy when standing at the eave and looking up the roof?

i am wondering if my tar paper was not tight enough or something, because even though the roof sags slightly, the shingles are still not real flat.
i guess that is why i did the back first, so i can correct my errors on the front.

[Bumblerazz]

I've noticed that the wave matches the shape of the shingles when they were on the ground. It's probably a memory effect from how the shingle packs were stored. If they, at any time, were stored on an uneven surface for any length of time they'll "fit" that surface, much like they do when put down on your roof.

It'll take some time, but the wave will come out.