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Birdman
March 17th, 2004, 12:38 PM
Well this site has been a great help for electrical work I did about a year ago...lots of knowlegable people...and I'm hoping those people know of some great websites to get ideas/tips etc., about building sheds.

I want to put a 12*16 in my backyard and was looking for ideas to get me thinking.

I've tried searching the net but there is way too much info out their to weed through and 99% of it is for someone trying to sell the shed. I get more satisfaction trying to build it myself.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

dznewz
March 18th, 2004, 04:19 PM
I built a 12x18 shed using Versatube framing. The whole thing was purchased as a kit of components at Menards. Around $1500.

Everything went together easily, except some of the Versatube welds were out of square. I ended up cutting out and redoing a few. I should have looked at the frame pieces more closely.

mdshunk
March 18th, 2004, 05:45 PM
I'm piddeling around on a 20 x 24 right now, that is a post framed building. It's the way most medium sized outbuildings are being built in my area, and is very economical to build. I'm putting pre-enameled tin on the sides and the roof, and pouring a concrete floor. Using a garage type door and a regular service door. Total cost (except concrete) will be about $2,000. I'm going to leave the floor dirt for a year or so, and then pour the concrete.

Wgoodrich
March 22nd, 2004, 05:44 PM
Per Building Codes you are over the 120 square feet calling for a footer. You are allowed a unipour footer/floor 12" deep if not heated or with insulated footer 12" deep if insulated. In this area most build it on a footer.

Some however ask for a varience allowing for the building to be built on skids. That would be up to local rules.

This small of a shed if unheated I would dig a 12" deep trench, pour level with concrete and install anchors in the concrete while wet.

Then I would build the walls per studs laying on the ground nailing them together to the top and bottom plates. Then drill holed matching the anchors. Build at least two of the walls with single top plates. Then intall the second top plate extending over the wall going the opposite direction the 3 1/2" to reach across the adjoining wall top plate. Then nail that second top plate in place on the first wall hanging over the 3 1/2" past the end of the wall. Then nail on the top plate on the adjoining wall 3 1/2" less than the end of the wall Take a couple of guys and lift the first wall into place using nuts and washers to bolt it to that anchors passing through the bottom plate. Then use the couple of guys to swing up the adjoining wall again sliding over the anchor bolts and straightening up so the top plate of the first wall hangs over the adjoining walls. Stick a couple of spikes in that hanging over top plate nailing the two walls together. Repeat on the other two walls using header and cripples where doors and windows go.

Be sure to use treated sill plates as your wall's bottom plates to avoid termite and rot.

ONce all four walls are up then start on rolling your rafters and ceiling joists using a ridge board at the top of the rafters. Then deck the roof and shingle.

Should be fast easy and inexpensive.

If you want it to be movable check to see if local rules allow it on skids are replace the cement footer with 4x4 treated beams and treated floor joists.

HOpe this helps

Wg