firefly
March 9th, 2004, 07:22 PM
I love my SHO, but alas I'm having a bad problem with it.
To give you some background, it was driving fine up until about 2 months ago, when we had a real cold snap. The temperatures were VERY extreme, and I must have had the coolant mixed a tad too weak, because my water pump developed a severe leak!
I brought the car in and had a new water pump put in. Now when driving, the car loses power and the engine rides REALLY rough. I brought it back and they seem to think some cylinder's aren't firing. True enough. They said either seals gaskets (or other head components) may have been burned when the engine was losing all the coolant through the water pump. To make sure all the cylinders had the best chance of firing, all new spark plugs were put in, and this made no difference. They want to do the seals next. They are scared I may have a crack or something as well (from the water pump going).
I don't think that is the problem though... cause here are the symtops: As mentionned, loss of power, really rough driving and the engine light comes on ON OCCASION. Sometimes it will drive fine. When the car DOES lose power and drive rough, I notice that the tachometer drop to about half of it's proper reading. Say I'm in third going 30 mph... instead of reading 3000 on tach it reads 1500. It sometime falls to half of that (reads like 750) and I lose even MORE and the engine gets rougher still. Then all of a sudden, the tach will jump up to its proper position, the car will continue to run poor for about 5 seconds more, then as the engine light comes off, full power returns and my head snaps back as things are running great again.
I read that frequently, a crank position sensor can fail with a leaking water pump, and I'm wondering since this problem only started after the water pump went, if this is the cause. I know the crank sensor feeds rpm info to the ignition control and to the tach, so it seems logical to me.. However my garage takes the more conventional "cracked haed or leaking seal" view of the problem and are trying to desuade me from doing the work, since they do not think that is the problem.
We pulled error codes and the read: 211, 216 and 217
thanks in advance for all your help...
To give you some background, it was driving fine up until about 2 months ago, when we had a real cold snap. The temperatures were VERY extreme, and I must have had the coolant mixed a tad too weak, because my water pump developed a severe leak!
I brought the car in and had a new water pump put in. Now when driving, the car loses power and the engine rides REALLY rough. I brought it back and they seem to think some cylinder's aren't firing. True enough. They said either seals gaskets (or other head components) may have been burned when the engine was losing all the coolant through the water pump. To make sure all the cylinders had the best chance of firing, all new spark plugs were put in, and this made no difference. They want to do the seals next. They are scared I may have a crack or something as well (from the water pump going).
I don't think that is the problem though... cause here are the symtops: As mentionned, loss of power, really rough driving and the engine light comes on ON OCCASION. Sometimes it will drive fine. When the car DOES lose power and drive rough, I notice that the tachometer drop to about half of it's proper reading. Say I'm in third going 30 mph... instead of reading 3000 on tach it reads 1500. It sometime falls to half of that (reads like 750) and I lose even MORE and the engine gets rougher still. Then all of a sudden, the tach will jump up to its proper position, the car will continue to run poor for about 5 seconds more, then as the engine light comes off, full power returns and my head snaps back as things are running great again.
I read that frequently, a crank position sensor can fail with a leaking water pump, and I'm wondering since this problem only started after the water pump went, if this is the cause. I know the crank sensor feeds rpm info to the ignition control and to the tach, so it seems logical to me.. However my garage takes the more conventional "cracked haed or leaking seal" view of the problem and are trying to desuade me from doing the work, since they do not think that is the problem.
We pulled error codes and the read: 211, 216 and 217
thanks in advance for all your help...