GFCI and conduit requirements

[Guroo]

I am a homeowner about to have a new workshop built. It will be a detached, non-commercial use structure in my backyard. My general contractor obtained the construction permits, but I elected to wire the structure myself and will be permitting shortly. I read through the previous threads but if it has come up before then it may have dropped from age.

I have decifered through reading and picking the brains of local pros that GFCI receptacles are required for outdoor outlets and outlets within six feet of an exterior door. I have laid out on my plans four 20 amp circuits using 12/2 with 4 to 6 outlets in each. One of those circuits, an exterior outlet is the first in the line and the next two on the load side are within six feet of a door. I know everything downstream of the first GFCI in the circuit is protected so would there still be a requirement for the #2 and #3 to be GFCI, being so close to the door?

My other question is concerning conduit. One of the circuits will run partially under the slab so I planned in burying it encased in conduit. When I went to purchase the conduit I asked if EMT could be buried. Sure can! was the reply and the Black and Decker wiring guide I was reading didn't disagree. Tonight however, reading through some guides online, several times in BOLD ALL CAPS in red, it screamed 'EMT should never be used in direct contact with earth!' Which one is code? At this point I will switch to IMT or sch 40 PVC just to be sure as the store opens in an hour and I need to be set up before my contractor shows up, but for my own curiousity, can EMT be buried beneath the slab and be within code?

Thanks!

BTW, from the threads I have read this is an AWESOME forum! And I look forward to reading more. Especially as I am thinking about pursuing an Electricians liscence for my second career after the military.

[6pack]

Go above (GRN & YELLOW) click on 2002 CODE, SEE "auxilary wiring". All outlets must be GFI protected unless ruled not accessible(behind an appliance as a refrig) also 8' high would be ruled out(door opener) but must be a single receptacle.
EMT is NOT allowed for direct burial, use either IMC, Rigid or PVC either SCH 40 or 80 allowed below ground.(if not subject to damage then 80)
Do not know of within 6' of a door ruling for GFI, where did you read this? All outlets must be GFI protected, as stated above.
If circuit as described, you may want that GFI protection(inside) making first outlet on circuit described being located on the inside. (would think handier). May even want to keep those outside outlets, isolated from inside DUE to faulse trips. SEE what others recommend.

[Guroo]

I guess I am having difficulty finding the reference to auxiliary wiring, but what I was reading concerning GFI outlets specified 'Attached' garage. Do detached workshops like the one I am talking about follow the same regulations? And I know it may just be semantics, but even though my contractor and I have been referring to this as a garage, both the engineer and appraiser took one look at the plans and said it was not a garage. If I'd have to guess it's that there is no access point large enoughto fit a vehicle through. (okay maybe a Mini) I guess I always thought a structure was a structure, at least when it came to non-residence type buildings. The distinction of calling it a workshop instead of a garage also came into play though concerning set backs. A garage would have required a larger set back.

The 6 foot rule around the door was what both of the local pros I spoke with referred to, but I didn't question their referrence. It was just something I hadn't come across in reading so I just wanted to bounce it out there for feedback.

Thanks for the suggestion about the exterior outlets though. I will likely make that happen as I have the materials and the space in the sub panel and it would not be difficult to incorporate the two exterior outlets into the exterior lighting circuit, or vice versa.

One more clarification though, if the initial outlet in a run is GFI, is the rest of the circuit considered protected, or do I have to physically wire each suspect outlet with a GFI? That can add up REAL quick when I have 16 to 20 outlets planned.

Thanks

[suemarkp]

Although I can't provide a code reference for GFCI's in detached structures that aren't garages, I believe the intent of the code is to put GFCI's in all places that have concrete floors.

A GFCI installed as the first outlet in a chain of outlets can protect all downstream outlets. What you must do though, is connect the cable going to the downstream outlets to the "load" screws of the GFCI. If you don't want to protect the downstream outlets, then put all wires on the "line" screws. Using the "load" terminals will save a bunch of money in GFCI costs!

[6pack]

reference I referred to showed, unattached garages and unattached storage areas. I guess this may come under AHJ as to it's specific use. Also do not know where written exactly the unattached building your mentioning.
Thought you were awhere of the downstream load side wiring of GFI outlets, this is why recommended your choice on how to run wiring. If 1st outlet outside(GFI) and it tripped, you now would have to go outside to reset, if using inside GFI protected outlets.(breakers(GFI) would correct this, but cost may be a factor for you.) GL

[Wgoodrich]

The 2002 NEC requires that any accessory building of a dwelling have all receptacles that are readily accessible to be GFI protected if on the first floor of any accessory building. The second floor is not included in this accessory GFI protection rule in the NEC.

I suspect you got confused and they were referring to the 6/12 foot rule in a home. This 6' rule does not apply to detached accessory buildings. In shops and garages you are only required one receptacle in the entire building and only if you serve that accessory building with electricity.

Yes almost everything found in the detached garage link above will pertain to your shop.

Remember any direct connected [no receptacle] is not a part of the GFI rule. The rest of that article [detached garage] linked above should hit most of if not all of the same rules that would apply to any accessory building in a dwelling setting.

What size service do you plan for that accessory building? Are you feeding it from the house or with a separate service? Read that detached garage link above. It explains advantages and disadvantages of either.

Hope this helps

Wg

[Guroo]

Sorry, I poorly worded my response back to you Wannabe. I was aware that any outlets to the load side of the GFI are protected, but I was confused by what I thought I was reading in the code and other readings that ALL accessible outlets (bathroom, kitchen, attached garage) must LITERALLY be GFI's not just protected by the first one in the circuit. But I've got it now. :)

WG, I'm actually kind of doing a bit of both with the main feed. I currently have a 200 amp service coming to the house with 90 amps going to the house sub panel, 50 to the range, 30 to the heater, and another 30 to the heat pump (the last two of which during the winter could potentially be running simultaneously). Between adding the workshop and later this Spring adding an above ground pool (and requisite pump) I decided that a new drop was in order. I checked with the power company to compare increasing service and adding a second meter. Increasing service was possible but according to the power company would force me to bring the existing structure up to current code. Adding a second meter, meant that only the new building had to be to current code and only costed only $27 to establish service, plus a minimum bill of $10/month as long as the new drop was less than 100 feet to the weather head. So the new feed would come to the house, then go underground following my fence line to a point closer to the workshop and then up into the shop. Following the fenceline is the shortest path while maintaining at least 20 feet separation from the planned pool. Depending on the required amperage for the pool pump, I will either run a line from the workshop, which would be more convenient or the new drop at the house, which wouldn't cut into the shop's allotment, but be a good bit longer of a run and so therefore more expensive.

The meter panel, mast and weather head, I have all ready decided to have done profesionally. While I have the panel all ready I'll let someone experienced cut through the eave and roof.

Again I thank all of you for your input. This will be my first major electrical project and thanks to you guys (and gals) through this post and others, a lot less daunting.

[suemarkp]

Are the loads you listed the actual amp draws or the circuit breaker sizes? If circuit breaker sizes, you may have enough ampacity left in your panel to not require a service upgrade. If you want a service upgrade, I would consider a 320/400 amp service as opposed to two separate services. I'm not sure if you'll use $10/month in a shop, but you may with a pool (at least in the summer). Regardless, a single larger service will probably pay for itself in a few years. Consider doing the Demand Load Calculation under the yellow button at the top of the page to see what your service needs are. I'm guessing you have gas available since I didn't see a dryer or water heater mentioned in your circuits.

By the way, most pool pumps are 240V and a 3/4 HP works for most (about 5 to 8 amps). My inground pool pump is 3/4 HP and I want to drop to a half HP with a different pump design. The largest any residential pool should have is 1 HP unless you want additional pumps for a spa (typically 2 HP), cleaner, or a pool heat pump.

[suemarkp]

I missed the comment from the power company in my last post. I can't believe changing the service would require bringing the whole house up to code -- that is nearly impossible without ripping out the walls. What is required is that the service be up to code. This probably means two ground rods, proper pipe bonding, bonding of gas/phone/CATV, proper service drop clearances, and anything else that's changed since your house was built. The weatherhead height and diameter may also be out of date, so check their requirements carefully to make sure you won't end up with an ugly service.