View Full Version : table saw dilemna
JCDIY
December 17th, 2005, 08:00 PM
I'm buying my fist real table saw and would like some advice. I will be using it several times a week for at least a year as I fabricate lots of built-in cabinetry as part an addition/rennovation at my home. After the cabinetry is complete, i will use it for general woodworking. My dilemna is whether to get a nice cabinet saw or a contractor saw. I need something that is highly accurate and will stay true after set-up. Anyone had great experience with Craftsman or Dewalt saws or do I need to pop for a unisaw (which I can barely afford).
erict
December 17th, 2005, 09:30 PM
Making cabinetry falls into general woodworking. So based on this I would spring for a stationary saw. I have a contractor saw (dewalt) and love it. But using it as a flow blown woodworking saw it has one big disadvantage, SIZE. For what I use it for it handles my jobs fine. But if I where you I would scrape up the extra money and by a cabinet saw. I would recommend a jet. A very good saw with a lot of features and a great price. I own a jet 14inch band saw, 16in drill press and a spindle sander. I have never had any problems with any of my jet equipment. Down the road I will also be looking at a cabinet saw and will defiantly be getting a jet. I would never buy any of the newer craftsman power tools they are junk. Some people do build out feed tables and extensions for their contractor saws but for what you want to use it for by the cabinet. You will be happier in the long run.
suemarkp
December 17th, 2005, 09:37 PM
You can probably do what you want with a contractor's saw, but the fence is the most important thing. It also depends on what you're using the saw for (types of cuts, and whether using plywood or solid woods). You can also do a lot (or make up for some drawbacks) with a router, especially if you're building cabinets out of plywood with solid wood fronts. With a straight fence, you can cut with a router. And a flush trim bit can fix things that are uneven.
Certainly, the cabinet saw will most likely be the better unit, but they do cost much more and need a large circuit. Be sure to cost compare with equivalent fences, as adding a decent fence to a cheaper saw may end up costing near what a cabinet saw will cost.
My Grizzly contractor's saw stays where I adjust it, but I do have some difficulty with cuts that are somewhat bowed at times. I think a better fence would help that as would getting the blade perfectly straight (the oval holes aren't quite oval enough to mount the blade perfectly true to the table. I need to disassemble it and file those holes).
erict
December 17th, 2005, 09:46 PM
Mark, good point about the fence. I should have mentioned that but it didn’t come to mind because I never had a problem with mine. Usually there is always a better fence system you can upgrade to when you purchase a cabinet saw. But you can always do this down the road. Some saws come with a good fence system and some are marginal. A good fence does make a saw. This is why I choose the dewalt contractor saw. It had the best fence system out there for this type of saw. The fence can make or break a saw.
removeb4flight
December 18th, 2005, 08:49 AM
If you do a lot of ripping of thick stock, get the biggest motor you can afford. I'd get one that can be wired for 220v power. Depending on the number of circuits in your shop this can make things easier. If you use a dust collector you can't run that and a big hp 110v saw off the same 20 amp circuit. Dust collectors draw a lot of power too, and it is the one thing that must run at the same time as your tools. :D
Mr Fixit eh
December 18th, 2005, 09:59 AM
Don't be shy to consider used equipment. I purchased my Unisaw for less than half what a new one would cost. With a good cabinet saw, you will enjoy unlimited power, stability that only mass can provide, and accurate, repeatable cuts.
Whether you buy cabinet or contractor-style, don't skimp on the quality. You'd be better off to buy a pro-quality contractor-style, than to buy a cheapo cabinet-style saw.
The disadvantage witht the cabinet saw, is that it's sure not moving out to the backyard if you're building an outdoors project, or if you want to take it to a friend's house -- oh, did I say "disadvantage." : -)
JCDIY
December 18th, 2005, 01:49 PM
Thanks much for the advice--it pretty much ratified what i was thinking. I have had my eye our for a good used unisaw with a biessemeyer fence system but no luck yet. i have another 3 weeks before I can't do without the saw.
This leads to another question---I'll be doing a lot of ripping and x-cutting
4x8 sheets (3/4" baltic birch or oak ply) and oak 1x stock. My shop (which I'm starting to build out as the sub contractors finish their work in the new basement) is long and fairly narrow (12' x 44' ). Is 12' too narrow to be usefull with sheet work? The 12' dimension is created by the line of steel support columns--with a lot of hassel I could probably relocate some and add others to create a wider space in the saw area.
erict
December 18th, 2005, 03:40 PM
It all depends were and how you set your saw and outfeed tables at. I think 12x44 is plenty of room. You will just have to be more creative in placement of you tools. Place your outfeed tables in the in the 44 foot direction. Also if possible when you buy (bandsaw,planer, etc etc) make sure you purchase dollys for them. This way you can roll them out of the way to create more room when needed.
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