Sewage Ejector Plumbing

[imported_ssabin]

I previously asked about the need for dedicated fixture vents for my basement half bath with a sewage ejector system, and was advised that the sump itself will provide the proper venting, as long as it is of course properly vented. The plumber who installed the rough plumbing stub outs and sewage basin said the same thing. So I'm pretty confident in how this will go together.

With that said, I've been wondering if I shouldn't just run a vent line from the sink to the basin's vent line because it is easy to do now. Would like to do the same for the toilet, but that would require concrete busting, etc, so that probably won't happen.

I know I wouldn't need this extra venting with the distance my fixtures are from the sump (both toilet and sink within 5'), but I am worried that if the basin fills to cover the discharge outlet opening into the basin, then the fixtures will have no vents. Or am I worrying too much? Should I just make sure the sewage pump float switch triggers on below the discharge outlet?

If the basin filled past the discharge outlet, the toilet most likely would not flush, or it would not flush very well. This has the benefit of alerting me to a problem in the basin, although I'll probably install a second float to serve as an alarm (wired on a different circuit, of course).

When I route the discharge pipe to tie it into the main drain line, I am planning on tying into the main drain line which hangs on the outside of the basement wall, eventually leading to the septic tank. The best place to connect is at the start of the horizontal run, being fed by the vertical toilet drain from the floor above. Should I place a wye in the vertical toilet drain, or in the horizontal drain line downstream from the toilet drain? If on the horizontal drain, does it matter if the wye is oriented "sideways", or should the ejector discharge line come into the horizontal drain from the top?

Finally, I need some advice on the venting of the basin. The basin cover has 2" outlets for both the discharge and the vent. The vent outlet is threaded. Do I use Teflon tape when making this vent pipe connection to the sump lid? What about on the threaded unions? Seems like I would want to. Next dilemma is the fact that the vent stack stub in the basement is 1.25" pipe, so I'll have to reduce the 2" vent line from the lid to 1.25" at the stub. Should I run 2" pipe up as high as possible and convert there, or can I convert it to 1.25" as soon as practical? My current plan is to convert right away to 1.5", include a 1.5" union for easy disconnect, run 1.5" high up the wall and then convert to 1.25". Is this a good plan?

Thanks as always.

[dkerr]

Thank you ssabin

Be patient , Wgoodrich may be more knowledgeable in this area than I, he is gone on a business related trip and should be back likley by friday or sat. , in the event that another does not address your question.

[imported_ssabin]

Thanks, DKerr.

[Wgoodrich]

Scott, I am back late Friday, but your questions are going to take some time to answer and I am tired. I am going to try and hit the faster answers to serve the most, then I will come back to you tommorrow with a fresh brain.

Wg

[imported_ssabin]

Thanks, WG.

Looks like the plumbing forum doesn't get nearly the traffic (and hence, other experts) like the electrical does.

Just another tidbit of info. In terms of tying in the discharge line to the horizontal drain line, there is a sink drain WYE'd into the drain line about 3.5' downstream of the veryical toilet pipe. From an ease-of-installation standpoint, as well as to minimize the discharge pipe run length, it would be nice to tie into the drain line between these two spots. My intuition says if the above toilet and sink have a vent stack somewhere between the two, I could probably do as I would like. But the counterpoint is to be conservative, and go downstream of the sink tie-in at least a couple feet.

Hope you are rested when you get back to this!

[Wgoodrich]

I haven't had time to get to the IRC but you should be fine with no further venting as long as your outlet into the sewage pit is within 5' of all units. You don't have long enough to cause a suction on the pipes that would suck the traps dry. That is the concern. All you plumbing is compact area dumping quickly into the larger drain then into the pit in short distances. I will need to check the IRC to give you confirmation but you should be fine with what you have due to short drainage.

As for the sump filling up and stopping the venting if the sewage fills over that outlet chances are you will have a big mess you will be more worried about than a dry drain trap.

Your sewage lift should have come with a warning float so that if the sewage raised a few inches above the turn on float being activated a horn or siren comes on warning you that you sewage pump has failed. This warning keeps your basement from having a mess you better hope with all you have never to experience. Not fun.

Wg

[imported_ssabin]

Thanks for the reply.

Already purchased the backup float switch to trigger some sort of alarm, and will run that off a seperate circuit. The only thing I really a, kicking around is where in the main drain line to connect the discharge line, and which way to orient the branch of the wye in that connection (vertical, horizontal, or somewhere beween). Looks like the sink drain empties into this line with the branch oriented to be on the same horizontal plane (same elevation) as the main run. I assume this mans that this type of connection is OK in my area, so I will duplicate it a few feet downstream.

[Wgoodrich]

Remember fluid falls. If you connect your sewage pump to the higher line and connect in on level plaine then you will have drainage from upstairs drains into your sewage pit unless you have some form of check valve to rely on. If it were me I would wye into the higer drain from the top of that higher drain to limit the downward flow action.

Good Luck

Wg