Elec Water Heater Selection

[bobthebuilder1]

Need to replace a 30 yr old Rheem 40 gal elec w heater located in utility room of basement. This is summer home but could become year round home soon. Could install up to 20" dia heater due space restraints. Old heater is 58" tall so dropping to 46 or 48, etc. should be easy as cold is 3/4" pvc and hot 1/2" cpvc. This current plumbing also has a 6" long copper pipe from hot exit point to cpvc. I assume cpvc should not be connected directly to hot exit point, thus the 6" section of copper-but you know what they say about assumptions. Plan to duplicate what's there due 30 yr success.
Have looked at several heaters, GE (made by Rheem), Whirlpool made by company in Tenn unknown to me, Ruud(made by Rheen) and Alliance. Because of 30 yr durability of old Rheem I lean toward the GE at Home Depot.($159.00) for 40 gal 6 yr war vs same tank at Lowes for $139.00. Others were $20 or more for same. Is the 9 yr war upgrade package worth the extra $50, 12 yr package an extra $100?
I currently use a timer in this house to conserve energy ie. on at 6 am, off at 9 am-on at 6 pm, off at 9 pm. Again assumptions can be erroneous. Does this really save on energy use?

Finally, what are your thoughts on elec demand type heaters for this 1,500 sf house with 3 tiny bedrooms & 2 full baths? Comments viewed on forums & enthusiasm of contractor I met seem very favorable if you overcome sticker shock. Gas type is $475 at Lowes so elec might be less if available. The contractor assured me installation is easier than a standard w. heater. He felt it would be preferable for a seasonal home especially. I do drain pipes in winter and again assume this type heater would or could be drained? Thanks to my old tech buddy Warren in advance. Bob

[Wgoodrich]

You should install the 6" tails on both hot and cold of the water heaters Then you PVC and CPVC.

I see no advantage of buying the extended warranty. Worst you may have is a service call and a replacement element and that is uncommon. My heater has been used since 1980 and have had no repair. A lot of this depends on the size water heater for the amount of usage. If you have 5 families on one residential water heater the elements would probably still be working 6 or so years later. Don't believe in the extended warranty for this product, but that is a personal opinion.

As for brands, I don't normally get into discussion about brands. Brands are like pick up trucks. Talk to a 100 different people at once about the best brand pick up and you will then have a minor war on your hand with them taking sides on which is the best brand.

If it were me I would buy one from a reputable manufacturer and buy a water heater a size large in capacity in water volume than you think you need. Then you also need to consider recovery time. Recovery time of hot water being used is a biggy on this subject.

Two 4500 watt elements and a tank and you have what you need in my opinion.

The timer in my opinion saves you little. If you had a timer that would shut down a heater for 5 days then heat up when you come to a cabin for the weekend and shut back off after you leave then you saved money.

If you turn on and off during a day period you will save little. The thermostats will cycle maintaining the temp of water if left on and use about the same current of electricity as what it will take to heat up your water to temp from setting all day cooling off. Maintaining temp by cycling in my opinion is more effecient than heating back up from cold.

Best savings you can do is to buy an insulation blanket trapping the heat in the water heater. Then buying pipe insulation to maintain piping temp of hot water to limit heat loss.

As for the in line heaters, these are becoming much more popular as the days go by. These in line heaters use a tremendous amount of power and are capable of heating the water as you use it. Good news is the electricity is only used AS YOU USE THE WATER. All other times NO electricity is used the rest of the day and night.

You obviously will use a tremendous amount of electricity to produce enough heat to make water hot as it flows. Add up the time you use the water and multiply it times the wattage being used. Then take the 4500 watt normally used on a normal hot water heater and multiply that times 24 hours per day times 30 days. Then reduce that about 40 % for cycling.

Now multiply the watt rating of the inline heater and multiply that times the amount of time you will actually use water.

Compare the two and you should find a significant savings using the inline heater versus the normal hot water heater.

Yes the inline heater is going to take a bigger electrical service and a bigger wire to the inline heater raising the initial cost dramatically compared to a normal water heater by you should quickly gain that initial investment back quickly and have that savings in your pocket for years to come.

This type savings per month on your electric bill is especially true concerning a weekend getaway.

Just my opinion.

Wg

[bobthebuilder1]

Thanks Warren, what amp cb is needed and wire type/size please?
Bob

[Wgoodrich]

Inline water heaters come in a variety of wattage. You need to research with different brands to find the info for the output rating that meets your needs. Then take the volt amp or watt rating and divide that by the volts. That will give you the amp rating. Then add that to the demand load of your panel to see if your panel is large enough to carry the load. Then to size the breaker I would increase the size breaker and conductor by 25% more than the rating of that heater. Remember this inline heater will not have use for a neutral conductor.

If you are talking about the normal water heater if you have a 240 volt 4500 watt element then you will need a 30 amp breaker on 10/2wGrnd cable.

Good Luck

Wg