Kitchen counter outlets (again)

[Emil]

Hi all, just joined.
Looked through the old messages for info on this, some help was found, but I'm still a bit curious.

OK, then. I have a kitchen counter; there's only 1 duplex outlet, 3-wire hookup.
I want to install a GFCI. As I understand it, the only CEC/OEC code-compatible method is to use a 2-pole GFCI breaker. (Yes, big $$$).

But, what about using two GFCI modules (the ones with no outlets on the front, just 'reset' & 'test' buttons), and a normal duplex split outlet. Each GFCI module gets one of the 'hots', and the neutral goes to both, and the outlet, with no breaks in the neutral wire. All mounted in 3 ganged boxes. ??????

Any comments appreciated. :-)
Emil

[Homer]

What you are proposing will work if you supply each half of the duplex receptacle seperately. That means breaking the tabs on both sides. That way there will not be a shared neutral past the GFCIs. Each GFCI will supply both a HOT and Neutral to half of the duplex. This is just a variation on this sketch that I posted a while back.

http://www.selfhelpforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212&stc=1&d=1099525994

Instead of supplying individual duplex receptacles, the GFCIs would be supplying each half of a duplex receptacle seperately.

This would function exactly like a split wired duplex receptacle. However, would your inspector accept it as a split wired receptacle as required for 15A counter circuits? By definition, a split wired receptacle has a shared neutral with the neutral tab intact.

Furthermore, this seems like an ugly way to try to meet the code requirements (3-gang for a duplex receptacle).

Homer

[mdshunk]

Plus, for the price of two dead front GFCI's and the extra labor, you could have bought a 2 pole GFCI breaker and been done. Seems like a super ugly method to save a few pennies.

[Emil]

Hi,
hmm...that definition kills the idea.
Labour wasn't an issue, 'cause it's an older place and I probably won't be able to find a DP GFCI breaker for it that would "pop" in.
It's not pretty, sure, but the local resets kind'a made up for it.

Thanks :-)

[Emil]

Other options: (?)

- cap off & lock out 1 circuit; and install GFCI on the other (?). Probably a 'no-no' (?) - counter duplex outlet on a 15A circuit.

- run new wiring with dedicated neutrals for each circuit, install a GFCI on each (?). (this seems like 2 of the above, another no-no)?

- run new wiring for 20A circuit, install 20A breaker, install t-slot GFCI
- run 2 new circuits for 20A, install 2 20A breakers, istall t-slot GFCIs on each.

:-)
any comments appreciated
Emil

[Tony Moscioni]

In dwelling units, Rules 26-712(d) and 26-722(b) require that kitchen counter receptacles be split receptacles connected to multi-wire 15 amp branch circuits.

Rule 26-726 permits the installation of 5-20 RA (T-slot) receptacles connected to single 20 amp branch circuits as an alternative to split receptacles and circuits. In both cases adjacent receptacles shall not be connected to the same branch circuit.

Receptacles that are located on either side of a kitchen sink shall not be considered as adjacent .

Tony Moscioni
Electrical Inspector
Electrical Safety Authority

[Emil]

OK, that clinches it then.

This is an upgrade to an older home. The current setup is a single split receptacle within one meter of the sink, which, to me is too risky to live with.

I'll change the breaker (assuming I can get one) to a 20A and rewire to supply one 5-20RA GFCI duplex outlet.

Can I leave it at this? Or do I have to add another similar circuit to comply, as with 1(a) below:

© Canadian Standards Association
26-726 Alternative to Split Receptacles and Multi-Wire Branch Circuits in Kitchens (see Appendix B)
(1) Notwithstanding Rules 26-712(d)(iii) and 26-722(b), it shall be permitted to provide a duplex receptacle having
a CSA Configuration 5-20RA in lieu of each split receptacle required along the wall of a kitchen counter work
surface, provided that:
(a) Not less than two branch circuits are provided; and
150 CANADIAN ELECTRICAL CODE, PART I
(b) The ampacity of the branch circuit conductors is not less than 20 A; and
(c) The rating of the overcurrent device protecting each branch circuit is 20 A.
(2) Not more than two of the duplex receptacles described in Subrule (1) shall be connected to one 20 A branch
circuit.
(3) Adjacent receptacles shall not be connected to the same branch circuit.
(4) The 20 A branch circuits described in Subrule (1) shall not supply any other outlet.

:-)
Thanks for the help to all
Emil

[Mr Fixit eh]

it shall be permitted to provide a duplex receptacle having
a CSA Configuration 5-20RA in lieu of each split receptacle required along the wall of a kitchen counter work
surface, provided that:
(a) Not less than two branch circuits are provided;

If I understand the rule correctly, if you switch to 20A-T-slot receptacle, you can only do so if there are two branch circuits. For maximum firepower, you could upgrade to a 20A, double-pole, GFCI breaker--and install a multi-wire/shared neutral circuit to a split receptacle. This would give you 4,800 available watts compared to the 3,700 available watts you now have. Be aware that if you choose this option, you will have to pull through 12 AWG cable (it's highly unlikely that they would have wired it up to #12, but check). This would be your most expensive option.

You cannot replace your multi-wire 15A split receptacle with a single 20A
T-slot receptacle, even if you pull in new 12 AWG cable.

You have 2 low-cost options:

1) If you are not modifying the existing circuit for other reasons, you could leave the existing receptacle and change nothing. I would not recommend this, because the GFCI protection might save the life of a loved one.

2) Put in a double-pole, 15A, GFCI breaker. Expensive, yes; but the most affordable, yet safe installation. This gives you enough power to run a microwave and a toaster (or kettle) at the same time. If you do this, don't forget to label the receptacle as "GFCI-protected."

If you are looking to go to the cost and labour of pulling new cable from the panel (big job), then I would look at pulling in multiple new GFCI-protected single 20A T-slot receptacles with 12/2 and single-pole breakers, or multi-wire 20A T-slot split receptacles with 12/3 and double-pole GFCI-protected breakers

If you make changes, don't forget to get a permit and get the work inspected.

[joed]

You can't simply change the breaker to a 20 amp unless the wire is #12 which I doubt it is.