hot water heater

[Unregistered]

I have a gas hot water heater.
1. Do I need to install dielectric unions or is that just for electic hot water heaters? I was at my home cente and found some non-directional nipples for the top of the hot water heater...and right next to them on the shelf were these dielectic unions (directional and color coded; blue-cold, red-hot). Not sure if I need these for my gas hot water heater.
2. Also, when picking up the pipe dope....the choices were many. The clerk gave me some material that was called "Pipe Dope", but it was grey and the bottle didn't really say it could be used on metal pipe. In the past I've always only used a white teflon-based goo that coats the threads for the pipe connecting the gas. Any product suggestions on what to use?

[Unregistered]

hey guys...this looks like a good question. I could you some help on this one too. ANy thoughts?

[mdshunk]

I have a gas hot water heater.
1. Do I need to install dielectric unions or is that just for electic hot water heaters? I was at my home cente and found some non-directional nipples for the top of the hot water heater...and right next to them on the shelf were these dielectic unions (directional and color coded; blue-cold, red-hot). Not sure if I need these for my gas hot water heater.If you are piping your water lines into the water heater with metallic piping of any sort, the use of di-electric unions is encouraged, but never required. They are not just for electric water heaters. Any time you have two different types of metal water piping connected together, an electric current will be generated and corrosion begins almost immediately. A dielectric union breaks the "circuit". Even with a dielectric union installed, the "circuit" will complete itself through the water, but to a lesser degree. Corrosion will still happen even with a dielectric union installed, but will be greatly retarded. As far as the color coded blue/red ones.... well that just shows you that manufacturers are starting to make things for the dumbest of all of us. :D


2. Also, when picking up the pipe dope....the choices were many. The clerk gave me some material that was called "Pipe Dope", but it was grey and the bottle didn't really say it could be used on metal pipe. In the past I've always only used a white teflon-based goo that coats the threads for the pipe connecting the gas. Any product suggestions on what to use? The pipe dopes have listed on the cans exactly what types of piping they are listed for. The grey clay based pipe dope is the really old time universal stuff. It's about the cheapest stuff, but not the best. The white PTFE is quite popular, and performs well for water lines. I prefer the yellowish RectorSeal #5 most of the time because it does the best job on any piping system, including gas. It also happens to be the one of the most expensive pipe dopes, but one can would last a DIYer the rest of his or her life. I also like the blue "Leak Lock" dope. It performs as well or better than RectorSeal #5 and is more expensive yet and less readily available. Leak Lock is preferred among most HVAC men, and RectorSeal is preferred among fitters.