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xkvator
May 15th, 2005, 04:33 PM
does anyone that has a well with a lot of iron have an iron filter in addition to a water conditioner(softener)
i have a Culligan water conditioner-20 yrs. old-does a fair job, but not good enough.
my iron content is 10 ppm.
i understand you also have to add an aerator in the line before the tank/pres. switch.

mdshunk
May 15th, 2005, 04:40 PM
I solved my Iron problem with chlorine injection. My water had so much iron, that if you let a glassful sit for 1/2 hr, it turns brown. The chlorine changes the PH of the water and causes the iron to precipitate out of the water at a certain Ph (called the "optimum point of flocculation"). I have a 200 gallon tank that gives the chlorine some contact time to precipitate out the iron and then it settles in the bottom of the tank and is drained off periodically. It looks like brown mud. I'm not so sure what aeration would do other than to rust the dissolved or suspended iron quicker. I do know that the iron coats the resin beads in the softener and can render the ion exchange process ineffective. Removing the iron before softening is the only way to fly. BUT, I seem to remember some of the cartrige filters for iron rated for 10 ppm removal. 10ppm sounds like it's probably just coming from your well casing.

Mr T
May 15th, 2005, 05:34 PM
I am in the process of putting in a filter and a softener. (and having every possible problem in the process). sniper_1 sniper_1 sniper_1

We bought a new kenmore/sears softener. Not sure of how it exactly works yet, but you punch in your hardness level. They give you a formula to adjust the hardness level based on your iron content. This softener runs only when needed. (can be set to run immediatly, or that night). Water softeners have come a long long way since 20 years ago.

our hardness is 17 with iron at 4 (think that number is a bit low). We will have to set our softener at 37 to comensate for the iron. (add 5 to every ppm of iron)

Putting a filter before the softener will probably reduce your run frequency and salt usage, and save wear/tear on the softener.

Sears will test your hardness/iron level for free.

xkvator
May 15th, 2005, 06:05 PM
the iron filters i'm looking at are 10" dia. x 48" tall and backwash the same as softener. they're rated for 25 ppm. it's installed ahead of the softener.
MD...my well casing is PVC, so it's not coming from there. do you remember what the ppm of your well is? must be pretty high. do you get any iron stains in the shower/bathtub?
Mr T...the Sears i went to doesn't test water anymore...might call another one to check.
i had a guy come out last week...he wants to put in the whole system - new softener too - i'd like to keep mine.

mdshunk
May 15th, 2005, 06:20 PM
do you remember what the ppm of your well is? not any more. That was 10 years ago that it was checked.
must be pretty high. do you get any iron stains in the shower/bathtub?Before I addressed the iron issue, I sure did. You couldn't even wash whites without turning them all orange, which sucked with a nurse for a wife. This has not been a problem since I installed equipment to address that matter. Neighbors have the system that you're describing, and it seems to work for them. My well is touchy (as far as output goes), so I didn't want a system that backwashed.