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gbeichho
May 9th, 2005, 10:41 PM
I never notice anything about firestops (for holes drilled into the upper plates) in any of the Knight's books (I don't have the full code though). I suspect it's not a requirement, but it seems like a very smart thing to do. Since I have full access to all of the wiring in my attic, I was considering making sure all the holes have stops.

Can you tell me you usually use? Is fiberglass insulation effective?

I'm also assuming that a breaker box is often the source of heat/fire in case of a malfunction somewhere. I've got a sub-panel mounted inside the wall. Should I put fiberglass insulation around it, or leave the space open?

Thanks,

Mr Fixit eh
May 10th, 2005, 06:17 AM
I'm not sure that firestop rules are in the electrical code, that would be in the fire regulations. Nevertheless, you should caulk all openings with a fire-rated caulking--nothing else will do.

gbeichho
May 12th, 2005, 09:52 PM
So I looked at my local Home Depot, but I didn't immediately see a fire rated caulking anywhere. Is standard interior caulk fire rated?

Thanks,

George

flickit
May 13th, 2005, 05:19 AM
So I looked at my local Home Depot, but I didn't immediately see a fire rated caulking anywhere. Is standard interior caulk fire rated?

Thanks,

George
...the insulating foam in the spray can in Home Depot's electrical area (and other areas). It may be a more effective insulator and probably is up to code regards Fire Ratings. The info on the can should spell it out, otherwise check the manufacturer’s Web site for details.

Mr Fixit eh
May 13th, 2005, 10:09 AM
Home Depot (among others) carries fire-rated caulking. It comes in a caulking tube. There are several makers of caulk, here are a few: Firestop Metacaulk; 3M Fire Barrier Caulk; Flameseal Fire Stop Caulk. They all break down to an fire-resistant intumescent charr when exposed to heat and flame. They are water-based and easy to work with.

There are no substitutes.

A "fire-rated" expanding foam simply is fire resistant. It is not an adequate fire stop material. This link gives a little explanation of the difference http://www.betterfoam.com/Fire-Foam1.html

gbeichho
May 16th, 2005, 10:27 PM
OK, Home Depot in Toronto only seems to have 2 brands:

DAP Fire Stop - This one is fire rated Silicone ASTM E-814. It can be applied at lower temperature, but has all the health hazard warnings of your standard caulking. Rated for Fire Walls.

Stone Mason Fire Block Rated ASTM E-136 (not for use in fire walls). Water based, and doesn't have all the toxic warnings. Obviously I would prefer that stuff, due to the lower toxicity. Is this good enough for sealing the holes in my top plates?

Canadian Tire has Zip. I still have to check RONA.

Do you use it to seal the recepticle box holes as well?

George

Mr Fixit eh
May 17th, 2005, 07:20 AM
The DAP Fire Stop product would be the correct one to use for your application.

You would not use the caulk on the box itself. If there is a knockout missing, then you need to mechanically replace it.

gmrobert
August 23rd, 2005, 05:11 AM
The use of fire-stop is identified in Part 3 of the building code. I have not looked but I don't think there is no requirement ofr fire-stop in Part 9 (residential under 600m2) which would make it not required in small residential (which would make sense). Typically you only use fire-stop when you are penetrating a fire rated separation, and fire rated separations are typically only between different occupants. So unless you are renting out your attic as an appartment you probably do not need to fire-stop the separation. If anyone knows different please let me know as I am curious about this one.

Greg

gmrobert
August 23rd, 2005, 05:13 AM
Also note that most fibre glass and foam based insulations are combustible and in some cases flamable materials.

Greg

Tony Moscioni
August 23rd, 2005, 01:27 PM
Rule 2-124 Fire Spread (see Appendices B and G)

(1) Electrical installations shall be so made that the probability of spread of fire through fire-stopped partitions, floors, hollow spaces, fire walls or fire partitions, vertical shafts, or ventilating or air-conditioning ducts is reduced to a minimum.

(2) Where a fire separation is pierced by a raceway or cable, any openings around the raceway or cable shall be properly closed or sealed in compliance with the National Building Code of Canada.

Rationale and Intent for Rule 2-124.

We intend to reduce the possibility of fire spread. Where a fire separation has been pierced, the effectiveness of the closing should be to the satisfaction of the building code officials, who are expert in this field. Appendix B gives references to the National Building Code of Canada for guidance.

Appendix B: 2-124

Specific requirements pertaining to penetration of fire separations in buildings can be found in Subsections 3.1.7 and 3.1.9 of the National Building Code or in the appropriate Provincial/Territorial Legislation.

Appendix G: 2-124 Rule 2-124

3.1.9.1.(1) & (2)
Fire stopping of service penetrations through fire-rated assemblies or fire separations.

Tony Moscioni
Electrical Inspector
Electrical Safety Authority

mdshunk
August 23rd, 2005, 02:15 PM
...the insulating foam in the spray can in Home Depot's electrical area (and other areas). It may be a more effective insulator and probably is up to code regards Fire Ratings.

{Flickit puts down doobie just before Marc smacks him in the back of the head}

Put a match to spray foam and watch is disappear in less than a second. It ain't fire rated by any stretch of the imagination. Fire caulk is generally red in color, and is used for no other purpose than caulking around wire and pipe penetrations.