Which solder for copper wiring?

[*Fred]

#8026: Which solder for copper wiring? Author: Fred, Posted: 02 Jun 2003 08:04 pm
----
Hello, I am about to embark on the project of installing a stereo in my truck and would like to know what kind of solder to use on the wiring. I know that a person shouldn't use 50/50 or 95/5 and the flux used in joining copper pipe fittings because of a chemical reaction. The copper ends could be spliced together using wire nuts, (the easiest way), but I think soldering would make a better joint. Correct? Any special hints would be appreciated. Thanks for the help. Fred.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

#8028: Author: joed, Location: welland ontario Posted: 02 Jun 2003 09:26 pm
----
Use a 60/40 rosin core solder for electronics. The flux will be the correct type.

[tone100]

Use butt connectors.

[Frank]

Solder joints are prone to failure due to vibration - wire nuts are easy and a couple of wraps of tape will ensure they don't come undone. I usually use butt connectors when wiring on cars too; you can get heat-shrink type in marine stores for better protection and more secure joint.

[jmerritt]

As mentioned earlier use butt connectors and I will add use a double crimp tool to make a very good connection. For additional money I understand there are aircraft crimp connectors available that will make the connection even better. Never use solder on electrical connections in a car.

[Wgoodrich]

jmerritt, considering most electronic components of a car use solder in their circuitry I am curious why you are so against solder and heat shrink type connections?

Wg

[mdshunk]

I think that solder should be a fine automotive splice. I used to work for a terminal company (AMP) and they made an aircraft butt splice for C130's that was called a "zap splice" that was basically a butt splice with a pre-measured amount of solder inside it, that you crimped on, then heated to disperse the solder. It had a clear heat shrink outer shell to visually confirm a good joint. Some uninsulated ring and spade terminals even were tested for their solderability, because some uses called for them to be crimped and soldered. That's my two-cents, help or no help.

[jmerritt]

WG,

I think the zap splice that mdshunk mentions in his reply is a good one. I just have found that solder connections by themself just don't seem to do as well as the crimp, expecially in the engine compartment. Using the heat shrink as you suggest might be the difference. I just think that the vibration as frank mentions takes its toll on solder connections. Just my .02. Maybe someone can verify, but I read someplace that aircraft connections are all crimp, solder not permitted.

John :)

[Wgoodrich]

John were you using rosin core solder? Rosin core is the only solder allowed for electrical connections. Any other solder is less durable. Rosen core solder when properly installed becomes a part of the conductor. High heat melt beyond the temp ratings of normal wiring insulation. Vibration would not cause this connection to fail.

Research the type solder you are using. May be your problem if you have experienced failure of solder connections.

Just my opinion.

Wg

[jcampb]

I have made several connections with copper wire on my boat. I always use butt connectors and double crimp them. I also apply weatherproof shrink wrap around the connectors. Solder of any kind will fail after vibration. If you think a car vibrates try using solder on a 60 mph boat.

[Frank]

I have made several connections with copper wire on my boat. I always use butt connectors and double crimp them. I also apply weatherproof shrink wrap around the connectors. Solder of any kind will fail after vibration. If you think a car vibrates try using solder on a 60 mph boat.

I work in a boatyard from time to time. As an aside, I've noticed on a couple of different sailboats that panel connections using lock washers have loosened up but that connections that were double-nutted did OK. I've also replaced my share of solder connections with crimps - maybe the difference is in the wrong choice of solder.

[joed]

solder connection should be mechanically sound before you solder them.