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sparky_not
February 24th, 2005, 06:06 AM
Hi,

I'm running some wiring in a reno I'm doing to my house near Edmonton Alberta. I have a couple of questions.

1. If I am running wiring in the attic space (just a regular bungalow with a 4-12 pitch roof), what precautions do I need to take? I suppose I can't just lay my 90NMD 14-2 wire across the top of the insulation, can I? Can I use BX in this fashion in the attic? Can I put the NMD in plastic conduit and secure the conduit to the top of the ceiling joists when running 90 degrees to the joists? If I do use conduit, how close to the actual box do I have to get?

2. If I combine lights and one receptacle on a single 15 amp circuit, what is the maximum load I should allow from the lights (in other words, how many watts should I leave available for the receptacle. The receptacle will likely only be used for decorative lights around the stair railing during he Christmas season?

3. I would like to run an outdoor receptacle on a timed circuit. I am thinking of running a wire between the GFCI outdoor receptacle and another indoor receptacle placed in the storage room. Then, beside that indoor receptacle wired to the outdoor receptacle, I want to put another live receptacle (in a separate box) running on a dedicated circuit from the panel. I could then plug an inexpensive, reliable, indoor store bought timer into the live receptacle and run a small patch cord (male on both ends) between the timer and the receptacle connected to the outdoor receptacle. I know this sounds ludicrous, and may even be against code. I just can't think of a neater, better way to create a timed outdoor circuit which will give me all the flexibility and convenience I need. Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated.

4. I have read in this forum that you can't combine outdoor receptacles with outdoor lighting. I have also read that you can't combine indoor receptacles/fixtures with outdoor receptacles. My question is, can I run outdoor lighting and indoor lighting/receptacles on the same circuit?

5. I have an older house with some short wires running up inside the walls to which I have no access. In particular, I have 3 separate circuits all in close proximity to each other, each serving only one endpoint (1 - a refrigerator, 2 - an outdoor plug, and 3 - a kitchen counter plug/above the sink light fixture). I ran 3 lengths of 14-2 from the panel to the location. I chose to connect the short wires to my new runs of 14-2 in one junction box located inside a small utility closet. The junction box is actually a double, gang style receptacle box, 3" deep. Have I got too many wires running into this box? Again, there are 3 circuits which amounts to 6 hot wires, 6 neutral wires and 6 ground wires pigtailed to additional short ground wires attached to the grounding screws in the box. This makes a total of 9 connections/mirretts.

If anyone has time to answer some or all of these questions, that would be totally awesome. I am going to pick up a copy of the 'simplified electrical code' one of these days. I tried once, but the store was sold out at the time.

Homer
February 26th, 2005, 12:54 PM
1. If I am running wiring in the attic space (just a regular bungalow with a 4-12 pitch roof), what precautions do I need to take? I suppose I can't just lay my 90NMD 14-2 wire across the top of the insulation, can I? Can I use BX in this fashion in the attic? Can I put the NMD in plastic conduit and secure the conduit to the top of the ceiling joists when running 90 degrees to the joists? If I do use conduit, how close to the actual box do I have to get?For wiring runs in the attic you can't lay the wiring over the insulation. You can't secure cable or conduit to the tops of the joists either. You need to run along the joists or drill through them if cutting across them. How would you put boards down directly on top of the cable or conduit?

2. If I combine lights and one receptacle on a single 15 amp circuit, what is the maximum load I should allow from the lights (in other words, how many watts should I leave available for the receptacle. The receptacle will likely only be used for decorative lights around the stair railing during he Christmas season?You need to estimate the load that you would use for these Christmas lights or any other load you might plug in. Remember that you can only have a maximum of 12 outlets (fixtures and receptacles) on each circuit.

3. I would like to run an outdoor receptacle on a timed circuit. I am thinking of running a wire between the GFCI outdoor receptacle and another indoor receptacle placed in the storage room. Then, beside that indoor receptacle wired to the outdoor receptacle, I want to put another live receptacle (in a separate box) running on a dedicated circuit from the panel. I could then plug an inexpensive, reliable, indoor store bought timer into the live receptacle and run a small patch cord (male on both ends) between the timer and the receptacle connected to the outdoor receptacle. I know this sounds ludicrous, and may even be against code. I just can't think of a neater, better way to create a timed outdoor circuit which will give me all the flexibility and convenience I need. Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated.You're right, it is ludicrous, against code, and extremely dangerous to use a male to male cord. You will have live prongs! Don't do it!
If you want a timed receptacle you need to use something like this (http://www.levitonhelpdesk.com/catalog/pdf/D503O35.PDF) upstream from the receptacle.

4. I have read in this forum that you can't combine outdoor receptacles with outdoor lighting. I have also read that you can't combine indoor receptacles/fixtures with outdoor receptacles. My question is, can I run outdoor lighting and indoor lighting/receptacles on the same circuit?You must have at least one circuit that only has one or more outdoor receptacles on it. Once this is met you can share other receptacles and lights as long as it doesn't involve kitchen or laundry dedicated circuits. Outdoor lighting can share any circuit (indoor or outdoor) that isn't required to be dedicated (like the ones for outdoor receptacles, laundry, or kitchen).

5. I have an older house with some short wires running up inside the walls to which I have no access. In particular, I have 3 separate circuits all in close proximity to each other, each serving only one endpoint (1 - a refrigerator, 2 - an outdoor plug, and 3 - a kitchen counter plug/above the sink light fixture). I ran 3 lengths of 14-2 from the panel to the location. I chose to connect the short wires to my new runs of 14-2 in one junction box located inside a small utility closet. The junction box is actually a double, gang style receptacle box, 3" deep. Have I got too many wires running into this box? Again, there are 3 circuits which amounts to 6 hot wires, 6 neutral wires and 6 ground wires pigtailed to additional short ground wires attached to the grounding screws in the box. This makes a total of 9 connections/marrets.Your box is a 3x2x3 (each section), double-gang (3x4x3 combined) with a useable volume of 30 cubic inches (not 36). Each insulated wire takes 1.5 cubic inches and each pair of caps takes 1.5 cubic inches. So you're OK.

Homer