Steel Framing Members

[dremmel]

I plan to build a two story addition onto my home this year. I'd like to make the first floor out of a concrete slab. I'd like to use steel framing for the walls and joists as well as the trusses. Has anyone reading this had any experience using steel framing members? My only experience was hanging drywall when I was a younger man. Since for the most part, this will be a one man operation, it may take me a while to erect the skeleton. This is one of the reasons I'd like to use steel. Also, when I framed out my basement, I purchased "SELECT" 2x4s. They still warped and bowed more than I'd hoped for. The metal studs etc. won't have these defects.

[mdshunk]

If you're doing all the work yourself, the steel framing would be an excellent idea. If any work will get subbed out, the price goes through the roof, since most subs don't often work with or around steel framing. I know it makes the electrical work more expensive, since you use grommets in the holes in which wire passes as well as special boxes. Get a copy of the IRC (International Residential Code). It has a whole section on steel framing, and it could serve as a pretty good how-to guide. It has lots of picture details relating to normal steel framing special issues (headers, joints, etc), complete with required screw placement and all. Be advised that if you need to install any wood trim in the house, you'll need to use the tiny headed trim screws unless you're going to install lots of wood blocking within the steel framing channels. Just realize that anything that you would have normally installed with nails (like trim, windows, doors, etc.) will now need installed with screws unless you install blocking.

If your only reason for wanting to use steel is the lack of good straight lumber, you might consider changing where you purchase your material. I have noticed that Lowe's and Home Depot tend have lumber that's not as nice as the smaller lumber suppliers. Since I know that you're in central PA, I'd recommend that you look into '84 Lumber' or 'The Lumber Yard' for high quality framing material. I know that in your York county there are a couple of local planing mills that plane, dry and grade stamp framing lumber right local to you. Try them for good stuff.

[dremmel]

MD, how do you know so much stuff on so many different subjects? Is wg paying you to answer questions like mine, cause if he isn't, he should consider it. (not too much the first year wg, cause you know he'll ask for a raise next year). I didn't even take into consideration the trim. VERY cool insite. Thanks for the heads up and the advice about the IRC. I did speak with my township inspector and he doesn't seem to know a lot concerning steel framing. He also advised me to look into the IRC as well as the Pennsylvania Construction Code. Thanks again. Just kidding about the pay thing wg, but a gift basket at Christmas?

[mdshunk]

MD, how do you know so much stuff on so many different subjects? Because I'm a fat-headed know-it-all, that's why.

Save your money on the Pennsylvania Code. It's a small document that refers you to most books of the International Code series. For your home, the IRC is the main one that applies.

[Mr Fixit eh]

Don't use plastic electrical boxes. There is a danger of the metal wall assembly becoming energized all sections are not bonded to ground. Metal electrical boxes should do this effectively.

Mr Fixit eh

[dremmel]

Thank you Mr Fixit. That's another point I hadn't considered...and a very valid one at that. If you or anyone else think of any more safety issues, please throw them my way.

[dremmel]

I bought a copy of the 2003 International Residential Code recently and started reading the section on steel framing since that's what I plan to use. At the end of the section concerning WALL CONSTRUCTION, on page 148, it shows two pictures of corner framing. The top picture shows the top track lapped over the bottom track. I know from the text that you can't notch or cut the flanges or lips of the studs or headers. But from looking at these particular pictures, am I to assume that that dosen't stand true for tracks and that one of the tracks has had part of its flange cut off to make the lap possible? And if so then is the bottom tracks' "lip" (if you will) been squeezed between the two studs that support the drywall?

[mdshunk]

Yes, you'll note that the dashed phantom lines show that the lip of the leftmost wall's top track section does pass between these two studs. The only top track that has a 'lip' section removed is the front lip of the rightmost top track.

So... how do you like the IRC? I think it makes an excellent companion to the NEC so that you get "the rest of the story".

Verify that this is the picture you were writing about, since I find it on p 149:

[Unregistered]

Yes, you'll note that the dashed phantom lines show that the lip of the leftmost wall's top track section does pass between these two studs. The only top track that has a 'lip' section removed is the front lip of the rightmost top track.

So... how do you like the IRC? I think it makes an excellent companion to the NEC so that you get "the rest of the story".

Verify that this is the picture you were writing about, since I find it on p 149:
Thanks for the clarification md. I did check the page number and it's 148. Page 149 is Table R603.6(1). As for how I like the IRC, I definately do. I've read the sections on foundations, floors, walls, roof-ceiling construction, radon, and have had only a few questions. This book is written so that even I can understand it. Speaking of radon, I re-read that section again today because my copy of Good Housekeeping hasn't arrived yet, and I have another question,or two. On page 562 (probably 563 for your copy), in reference AF103.6.1 Vent Pipe, it says the minimum diameter pipe to be used is 3", like my AHJ requested. My question is, since the diameter of the pipe makes it impossible to hide in the wall, would I need to frame out around this pipe, keeping the pipe inside the room, but this side of the studs? Also, what area of my room would you recommend placing it? I'll be putting down a monolithic slab with integral footing as is referenced on figure R403.1(1). By the by md, thanks for advising me to get a copy of the IRC. It's a wealth of info and will definately help me in my business this year.