Kitchen Renovation - Recessed Recepticle

[gbeichho]

I'm renovating my kitchen (relatively small) and I want to get my fridge to go back as far against the wall as possible. Unfortunately, the fridge recepticle is directly behind the fridge.

What are my options here?

1) Move the recepticle to the side? (Pain, and may not be possible given clearances in the space)
2) Recess the recepticle? (I've seen recessed recepticles for clocks, but they look kind of flimsy.

Any other thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks

[Homer]

The fridge plug should be right angled. If not you can replace it with one that is.

I think that it will only protrude from the wall by 0.5" to 0.75" at the most.

Homer

[Mr Fixit eh]

You're saying that the plug is behind the fridge and the depth of the coverplate and plug are keeping the fridge from snugging up tight against the wall?

I had a similar problem with my dishwasher installation. I made a shop-built solution so I could recess the receptacle about 1 1/2 inches.

I built a bottomless 'box' using 1/2' plywood the same thickness of my wall studs 3 1/2". This box is about 12" x 12". I then cut an opening for the receptacle in a 1/2" plywood square sized to fit snuggly inside the 'box'. I attached this to the box using glue and screws, being careful to make sure I had enough room for the box and any screws in the back of the box. I cut a couple of big notches in the top and bottom of the 'box' to allow the cables to enter the box frame. I carefully cut a hole in the wall the exact size of this box adding 1/8" for clearance along each side. I cut the hole right against the stud and attached the box to the stud with long wood screws. I made up trim mouldings from 1/8" scraps.

I have a power miter saw, which made the setup very fast. I had it built and installed in an hour or so.

This solution allowed the receptacle and coverplate, and plug (right-angled, at that) to sit recessed from the wall surface. I was able to gain an inch, my dishwasher now sits flush with the cabinets.

If you are interested, I can post a picture.

[Homer]

I made a shop-built solution so I could recess the receptacle about 1 1/2 inches.I don't suppose that you submitted this new device box to CSA or UL for certification testing in their labs, did you? ;)

We have to be careful with our suggestions and the resulting liability. A wooden box seems to violate requirements for non-flammable enclosures. :eek:

Homer

[mdshunk]

Fixit, are you saying that you built a totally wooden deivce box? or did you build this wooden box as a framework on which to mount a conventional device box in a recessed manner?

[Mr Fixit eh]

I'm sorry I was not more clear.

Hey, I thought you guys would know me a little better than that by now :rolleyes:

I said, I then cut an opening for the receptacle in a 1/2" plywood square sized to fit snuggly inside the 'box'.

Instead, I should have said, 'cut an opening for the metal receptacle BOX.'

This is a wooden 'picture frame' made of 3/4" x 3 1/2" inch plywood, with a plywood face set into the frame. The metal retrofit box mounts into this, so there should be no UL issues.

I will post a picture once daughter gets back with the digital camera.

[Homer]

I thought of something like this breaker 'box' when I first read your post.

http://www.nachi.org/bbsystem/usrimages/p/pd5.jpg

Homer

[mdshunk]

What's even funnier about that picture is that they have Federal Pacific breakers installed in it! What a hoot!!! I'm printing that one out!!!

Is that a piece of Zip Cord coming into it on the left? Jeeze...

[joed]

Looks like the bare ground is being used for neutral on feeder side.

[Mr Fixit eh]

That would indeed be funny if it wasn't so very scary. :eek:

[Sixer]

A clock receptacle might be your option. It will give you about 1" more clearance, but you won't be able to use it with an angled plug.