Pre-hung door installation question

[sj-steve]

I installed a Feather River pre-hung front entry door last week. The instructions say that I am NOT to nail/screw the top jamb to the door header.

Is this normal, or is there a reason for ths restriction that I am unaware of?

Here's my problem... The 2X4 drywall frame is split about 8-inches from the header on the hinge side. Had I known this before installing the door, I would have replaced it, but when I was screwing in the new door, the 2X4 cracked. It would, of course, be the last screw in the installation and we had already caulked the threshold. I put a long deck screw through the cracked 2X4 into the header, and that seemed strong enough, so we finished the install.

Now, a week later, the door frame is warping toward the cracked 2X4 and the door is contacting the door frame.

Short of removing the door and replacing the 2X4, a couple of deck screws through the top jamb into the header would stop the movement.

Can anyone think of a reason why I would not want to do the easy fix?

Steve Mann
San Jose, CA

[Jacksnap]

Steve, Can the cracked 2X be surgically cut out with a sawzall? If not, I'd take the time to fix properly the cracked 2X. Just from personal experience, I had installed a set of French doors after removing a large window and mortar blocked the excess space in the opening. I did a not so level vertical job on the masonary but set the door anyway on a cement slab. I used Liquid Nails on the sill 'per the instruction of my AHJ' (coastal FL, hurricanes). I could not get the doors square and had to remove the doors and frame. If you have ever used Liquid Nails, you can appreciate what I went through. I would do it again, though, because considering the severe loads at the door frames, I felt it needed to be done right. I am overly satisfied with my decision to accept the penalty for my mistake and redo the job to get it right.

[sj-steve]

If you have ever used Liquid Nails, you can appreciate what I went through. I would do it again, though, because considering the severe loads at the door frames, I felt it needed to be done right. I am overly satisfied with my decision to accept the penalty for my mistake and redo the job to get it right.

Oh yes, Liquid Nail - the reason I bought a power caulk gun.

I am torn between "good enough" and doing it right. Had I put the trim on I would probably have never seen the problem.

So, yes, I know that I should do it right..... I'm not 100% certain that it's the cracked hinge frame that's causing the problem, but that's what it looks like. If I remove the felt that I put up for waterproofing, I could get a second 2X4 behind the original and join them with a few deck screws.

But, the original question - why do the instructions say to not nail/screw through the top jamb into the header?

Thanks

Steve Mann
San Jose, CA

[Jacksnap]

But, the original question - why do the instructions say to not nail/screw through the top jamb into the header?
Sorry.
The reason is that to level the top jamb (in effort to get the door plumb), you move the side jams up and down after shimming them but before nailing the shims. When you get the door plumb, nail through the side shims. The top jam should have about a 1/2' space between it and the rough opening; and the side jams should also extend up beyond the top jamb. Look at the top jam and it should fit a dado cut in each of the side jams. The top jam in this case does not bear any weight; it is just for plumbing purposes.

[sj-steve]

Sorry.
The reason is that to level the top jamb (in effort to get the door plumb), you move the side jams up and down after shimming them but before nailing the shims. When you get the door plumb, nail through the side shims. The top jam should have about a 1/2' space between it and the rough opening; and the side jams should also extend up beyond the top jamb. Look at the top jam and it should fit a dado cut in each of the side jams. The top jam in this case does not bear any weight; it is just for plumbing purposes.

Thanks. That was the kind of answer I needed. Well, I didn't want to do it, but I'll seriously reconsider removing the door since the trim isn't on yet.

Steve