MAPP Gas Torch

[Mr Fixit eh]

I recently had to install new shut off valves in my copper supply pipes in the kitchen. I had just purchased a new torch that is compatible with MAPP gas. True to the article I had read in Fine Homebuilding, soldering with MAPP gas was much faster than with regular propane because it develops a hotter and finer flame.

[removeb4flight]

I just did some soldering on copper pipe and tried to use MAPP gas. My skill with doing it is limited, and I was out of practice. I found the MAPP gas was too hot for me. It heated the fittings so fast that I overheated them, then they got that blue color and I had lots of trouble getting the solder to flow. I think I may have burned off all the flux and then the fitting oxidized. Anyway, I went back to the regular gas torch to finish the job. Slower, but better for an amature.

[mfarver]

I would argue the reverse. I plumbed half of my new bathroom using a propane torch.. every third joint had pinhole leaks especially the larger 3/4 ball valve shutoffs. (My 105psi water pressure is not forgiving to weak joints). Switched to a MAPP gas torch and had only one leak for the rest of the project (moved the joint before it was fully cooled) The important thing to do is pull the torch farther away as soon as solder begins to flow and clean your connections well.

[scuba_dave]

I just bought a MAPP gas torch yesterday. I have been having a problem with larger fittings that are brass, they simply do not heat up fast enough
I'm looking forward to a faster solder using the new torch
I have about 80 psi after adding a whole house water filter

I think starting with the MAPP torch farther away until you get used to it would be key. I usually try to put a piece of solder on the top of the pipe
When that solder flows I know the pipe is hot enough

[CR500]

I had EXACTLY the same problem of overheating the pipes with MAPP gas. The solder would roll right off. I thought the pipes weren't hot enough. Once the pipe are severly overheated, you must clean and reflux.

The trick is to keep the solder on the pipe / fitting while heating. I heat it just a little past the point where the solder starts melting, then remove the flame and let the solder flow.

A buddy that is a licensed plumber uses acetaline gas. I think its temperature is between propane and MAPP. The tip also produces a much sharper point than the huge fat "turbo" tip I had on the MAPP.

I was installing some new ball valves on the water entrance when he stopped by. I let him solder the valves so that I didn't melt the teflon (or whatever type of plastic) seal. WOW, practice really does make the difference. The solder sucked right into the joint with absolutely no drip or solder overflow to wipe off.

[Shivacrat]

Actually, the temps depend on both the torch and the gas. Propane gives you about 1100F when using a secondary combustion torch and about 1750F with a swirl-combustion torch like the Turbo Torch mentioned. MAPP gas, when used with a swirl-combustion torch (the only type it should be used with) gives you about 2400F. Acetylene gives 2700F on a swirl torch.
In other words, for soldering water pipes, propane on a swirl torch will work all day. I am a plumber in residential construction, so I use both all the time. Which one is largely a matter of which tank my torch is on, but the techniques definitely differ. I use the TurboTorch with the straight tip (no trigger ignition) so either gas is pretty fast with new, dry pipe. On dry pipe, using propane, I keep the flame moving over the joint until right before I solder the joint, when I put the flame directly on the joint for a second or two. With the MAPP gas, I never let the flame rest directly on the joint. Instead I play it over the joint and then let it rest about an inch and a half over/under/to the side. Letting the flame rest directly on the joint with the MAPP gas usually causes problems. If you do overheat the joint, you can just brush on a big glob of flux then apply the solder. It will almost always take. Just be sure to tap your joints with your hammer once they have cooled and have water on them to make sure you didn't just "cap" them.
If the pipe is wet, however, the MAPP gas can really help and you will almost definitely need a swirl torch if you are using propane. Just make sure the steam/water has somewhere to escape other than the joint.
Oh yeah, my buddy uses the same torch, but with the trigger ignition tip. It is definitely convenient, but definiely burns a couple hundred degrees cooler. It also does not tend to overheat the tip if you have the flame low. Also, if you are brazing copper tubing, you will absolutely need to use MAPP or Acetylene. Hope this is helpful

[Ruth12]

I have a question : Is the use of MAPP gas permitted for cutting purposes in underground construction work, in tunnel work, or in cut and cover construction areas which are temporarily decked-over?