Drylock and Vapor Barrier?

[Unregistered]

As part of my basement refinishing project I was planning on putting Drylok water proofer on the walls before framing. I was then going to frame with 2x4 and add kraft faced insulation (kraft paper on inside), then cover with 1/2" drywall.

I have never seen any water in the basement or any wet spots on the walls or floor. My question is, am I creating a double vapor barrier situation here with the drylok and the kraft paper? Will this be a problem? I live in Connecticut,US so we do get a bit cold during winter but also have a few humid days in the summer.

Thanks for your thoughts,
Mike

[Unregistered]

good question....ive been thinking about doing the same in my basement.....except maybe paneling.....i live in Snowy buffalo.

[Wgoodrich]

Concrete will wick moisture. This wicking of moisture can be spread and evaporate almost as fast as it surface if exposed to open air to the surface of that concrete. When you install the sealant you often discover it works some but not a perfect seal. Then again if it does work then you sealed the moisture inside the concrete to surface elsewhere. This will often be at the top of your concrete wall by your sill plate concentrating that moisture in a localized area that may cause more harm than if evaporated all along the concrete wall surface. I am not convince installing this sealant would be an advantage.

If your basement was installed per IRC rules you have a purging of some type on the outside of that basement wall to hole out water. Moisture however will still wick up from the bottom along the dirt much like a dense sponge would do. The purging on the outside of your basement wall is normally plastic sheeting or tar type painted on the outside surface. They both are a form of a vapor barrier.

Now when you install insulation on the inside stud wall whether sealant is installed or not you have two vapor barriers being the second vapor barrier that of the paper backing of your insulation.

When studding out inside your basement walls leave a gap of about 1" between the concrete wall and the studs. Then install friction type insulation not paper backing. This allows all to breath allowing that moisture to dissapate without harm in that 1" air gap behind the wall.

You may install styrofoam insulation flat against the wall then nail slats on the face of the styrofoam insulation sheets. Then you can cut out for electrical boxes. Then you can install your drywall.

If installing paneling remember 1/4" paneling or thinner is required a drywall backing or other form making at least 1/2" thick backing. You are not allowed to install 1/4" paneling direct to the studs without backing. This paneling would not be strong enough to hold a person leaning against the wall without ripping out the nails and bending into the wall. Many probably saw this over the years where the paneling was shoved into the wall. Not a good thing.

Hope this helps

Wg

Good Luck

[Unregistered]

Wgoodrich,
Thank you for your detailed answer. Unfortunately I don't know what has been done to the outside of the foundation, I suppose that I can dig down a little bit in one spot and see. I don't think that much was done on the outside (the house was built in 1975) but I will check.

thanks again,
Mike

[Wgoodrich]

Dig down at least one place on each side of the home. Better to know rather than guess you risk to much to guess.

Good Luck

Wg