'96 Windstar

[mdshunk]

'96 Windstar, 3.8L, AXOD Transaxle, zillions of miles

The overdirve light flashes after the engine warms. The upshifts are late and harsh, downshifts smooth as ever. Any way to pull the transmission codes? Will my regular OBD II scanner grab whatever code is flashing the overdrive light?

[Roger]

Hi Mdshunk your obII should pull the error code on any Windstar newer than 1996. Yours is a 1996 so you are borderline depends on when it was built. Check the Vehicle Emissions Control Info (VECI) label on the underside the of the hood or next to the radiator shroud. It will say OBII certified. Here are the fault codes.....Roger

http://www.superchargedtrucks.com/scantool/ford%20dtc%20codes.htm

[mdshunk]

Okay, I got a P0500. "Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction". I can see how that would foul up the transmission shifts. Where's that trinket located, and how hard will it be to change?

[Roger]

Md, cant seem to find the location but it may not be on the tranny but on the front of the engine they show about four locations. Only one that I now isnt right is the rear differential. Best bet is on the tranny they look like image below. Only thing that is common is it is a grey with black stripe wire. I'll have it for you tommorrow, sorry..Roger...See next post

http://fordfuelinjection.com/images/vss.jpg

[Roger]

Md, location is behind the transmission fluid dipstick towards top of tranny. The speedometer cable actually plugs into the sensor itself and then a two wire cable also plugs into the sensor. The correct sensor is dependent on whether you have an electronic instrument panel or standard type panel. If it is electronic the Ford part number is E9LZ-9E731-A. If it is standard the Ford part number is E9TZ-9E731-A. Check the wiring to the sensor to make sure you dont have a broken or shorted wire. Here is the schematic......Roger

http://images.snapfish.com/33%3B8694323232%7Ffp47%3Dot%3E232%3A%3D%3B9%3A%3D6 88%3DXROQDF%3E2323635%3A%3B754%3Bot1lsi

[mdshunk]

Thanks a million, Roger. It's become fairly obvious to me over the years that highly successful and knowledgeable people only drive Fords. Thanks for sharing your "inside scoop" to help me with this little troubling thing.

By the way, great diagram. Big help. I'd have never found that sucker. Thanks again.

[Roger]

Glad to help....Roger

[mdshunk]

Thanks to Roger, I got my transmission problem fixed some time ago. Now I have a little bigger issue.

The wife called my cell phone to tell me that the temperature gauge was reaching the hot mark on her way to work. I told her to check the radiator before she leaves work at the end of the day, and put in some water for the trip home. She did add a gallon or so of water, and drove home. She reported to me that the oil light came on during her trip home. I pulled the dipstick and it shows that the oil is about a hundred quarts high. I suspect that all the antifreeze, and then all the water she added in now in the oil pan.

Is the engine now toast? Is there any practical repair now, or is a new engine the only reasonable repair option? I'm sure that the head gasket or whatever can be fixed, but has this much antifreeze in the oil for two 20 mile trips done irreversible damage to the bearings?

I intend to drain the crankcase of all the antifreeze/oil mixture, and refill it with new oil and immediately drive it to the garage. I just sort of wanted a head's up on what options they'll give me, and the pros and cons of each.

Thanks! :eek:

[Jacksnap]

Md, your not clear as to wether wifey added the water to the oil in error or you suspect blown head gasket or cracked head/block. I'm assuming wifey added to the wrong fill tube. If so, the antifreeze prevents the oil from doing it's job of providing that thin layer of oil that prevents/lessens contact between moving and stationary surfaces. Although it is bad for the engine for this to happen, it may have done little more then shortened the engine life by a thousand or two miles at worst. You should drain the oil and add new filter. Use cheap oil. Pull all the plugs and crank the engine. This will blow all the water out of the combustion chambers. Squirt in some WD40 or LPS (better) and repeat. Drain everything. Add the plugs back after cleaning and new oil and filter (cheap stuff). Start & run for a few minutes. Drain oil and add new filter again. There is a marine product called Sea Foam http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm that if you can find it add it also, just a few ounces to the oil. Run the engine about 50 miles. Drain, add quality new filter and then use Mobil One oil for the rest of the life of the engine.
If the water got into the crankcase through headgasket, crack or the like; remember you not only may need reworked heads but the block surface usually warps and has to to be milled for an effective repair. All this adds up to a lot of cash. Better off buying complete rebuilt engine with a warranty from an engine builder.

[mdshunk]

The wife is pretty "handy". I did ask her to point out where she put in the water. It was the ratiator that she added to. The is reinforced by the fact that the radiator is quite low again after the drive home.

[Jacksnap]

So, if the head gasket was blown you should have heavy vapor/glycol coming out the exhaust since the gasket usually blows a 'trough' between the water passages and the combus chamber; or a cracked valve seat would do the same thing (glycol to the combus chamber & exhaust vapor). If this is not happening (no vapor/glycol) at exhaust (use a glass jar over end of exhaust), then the leak most likely is cracked block with glycol going directly into crankcase.
Best case is possible that intake gasket is leaking glycol into lifter valley or something simple like that. Compression/leakdown tests are called for at least. Or simply pull all the plugs, crank the engine and see what cylinder, if any, shoots out glycol/water. Try to pressurize the coolant system with compressed air when doing this.
Considering all this, a tow to the garage would be best bet to limit losses if the repair should turn out to be minimal labor & parts.

[Roger]

Hello Marc, looks like the ole Windstar is showing its mileage. I dont think there is any doubt you have blown a head gasket. This also can take out your catalytic converter as antifreeze and converters dont like each other at all. Usually headgaskets blow out between adjacent cylinders and compression checks are the preferred method for locating the faulty area of the gasket and which gasket. Its going to be almost impossible to know for sure if the engine has been damaged without getting into it in my opinion. But 40 miles or so didnt do it any good, the crankshaft bearings are usually the first to become damaged. This will be a tough call as it will be a real pain to have the heads and gaskets checked and repaired, then have bearing damage you dont know about. Some guys like to check sparkplugs for signs of really bad overheating but I have never given this method much merit. Does the engine coolant show any signs of contamination from oil in the recovery resevoir? As for options they are probably going to replace the bad head gasket. If you want I can check on the cost of a new engine from Ford. At any rate Marc looks like a trip to the garage is in order as its apparent you are losing coolant to the crankcase. You could do your own gasket replacement if you want but there are easier vehicles to work on thats for sure, vans are notorious for being a real bitch. If you do it yourself I would do them both but have a case of coke handy you'll need it.....it will take many hours to complete. Sorry couldnt be of more help.....you are between that perverbial rock and a hard spot.

[Jacksnap]

...have a case of coke handy you'll need it
Roger, it's January in central PA. Marc is going to need a 'bag' of coke... :D

Marc, sorry to hear Roger's assessment. It's a bummer to lose a vehicle that you sound like you have taken great care of. There is little you could have done to prevent a blown head gasket on a high mileage engine. To make matters worse, by the time you realize there is a problem like that, it's usually too late. Good luck from here on with however you elect to handle the misfortune.

[mdshunk]

I'm not going to tackle it myself. Although I can and have done most automotive repairs, it's pretty low on my "things I like to do" list. I'm going to take it to my mechanic and see what he has to say about it. My wife likes this van, and I'm sure I'll have it fixed one way or another. I'm the type of person that fixes a vehicle until the wheels fall off. I've only ever traded in one car in my life. All the rest have gone to the scrapyard. There's several schools of thought on the matter of fixing a car or buying another. I think my math pretty well bears out that it's cheaper to fix most everything rather than have a payment again. Neither my wife or I really care about having the latest and greatest style or model of vehicle. That's a lucky thing for me. My only puzzle now is choosing between the head gasket repair or a new engine. I'm leaning toward new engine, since the rest of the engine is likely not far behind the heads. A new engine should be good PM against future issues related to the engine. Such is life...

[Why is it that my old pickup runs and runs for years, and modern vehicles seem to suffer on an annual basis? My wife reads these forums during her downtime at work. Honey, would you like to drive an old pickup instead?]

[Unregistered]

QUOTE "My wife reads these forums during her downtime at work. Honey, would you like to drive an old pickup instead"


No dear, I would NOT!!

[Roger]

Well, I wonder who unregistered might be??? Anyway "unregistered" in my part of the country the lady of the house always drives the more reliable vehicle, in fact it isnt unusual for the man to get a second job and surprise his better half with a new vehicle. New....as in no mileage...nice shiny new...smells new....looks new...dont mention it Marc...just trying to help.

[Unregistered]

Now there's an idea, sounds good to me, the hard part will be finding one IDENTICAL to mine with no miles. I drove a rental for a week a few years back (the guy thought he would be nice and put me in another windstar since that was what I was used to) that was a few years newer than mine, I hated it, I kept comparing it to mine and it just wasn't the same. My van is like my second home so it would be hard to get rid of her. Maybe just a new engine.

[Roger]

Yep,...its funny....my sister inlaw has a 1990 Ford Aerostar just a few months ago she had an event that took out the engine on her van. She didnt really want a new vehicle either just wanted her van back. I tried to no avail to get her to buy a new Windstar, she wouldnt have it. Soooo I got her a new engine thru Ford and she is driving that Aerostar like it had a new life. Heck it had 175,000 on it before the motor gave in, she plans on putting another 175,000 on the new engine. She is happy as a lark and no payment to look at for 4 or 5 years. So there certainly isnt one good reason I can give to say you shouldnt put a new engine in the ole van. Hope you and that van are like Roy Rogers and Dale Evans and have many "happy trails" together. Thanks for driving a Ford....Roger

[lmgreg5]

:hmmmm2:MDSHUNK, I know this is a super old post, but how in blue blazes did you replace that VSS on your 96 windstar? I cannot even reach it? Thanks.

[97windstar]

Dear Roger,

I came across this thread. I think i have the same problem with my VSS.
However, i cannot view this image you posted.
Also while at the parts store they asked if my VSS has a speedo cable or not.
My car has a mechanical Cluster so it would have a speedo cable, right?

Thanks a bunch.