Attaching deck beam to block

[DIY man]

I'm building a deck and am hoping for a solution to attach the beam to a block wall. I'm trying to avoid placing a post, with concrete pier footing, close to the wall. The ledger board will be on an adjacent wall.

Is there anything similar to a simple Joist hanger I can put onto this block wall? Or any other options anyone knows about. I was also thinking about a simple piece of thick metal attached to the end of the post then attached to the house rim joist.

[pushkins]

Use a small piece of 2x treated lumber as a ledger and anchor bolt it to the cinder blocks, or Simpson make a joist hanger to bolt directly to block/brick walls.

[DIY man]

Thanks for the suggestion. Other things came up and the deck project was put on hold. I'm back at it again. I've considered bot the "Mini ledger board" option and looked into the Simpson brackets.

I'm not fond of the mini ledger board because it seems like it would look kind of out of place. I could always, and will if I go this route" do something to make it look better but I still would rather go with a simple bracket.

The only bracket I found from Simpson is the HU410 or HUC410. On the installation notes from Simpson it states "Not recommended for exposed esterior locations." This would be under a deck which I would consider an exposed exterior location.

Any opinions or alternatives to this bracket? If not it looks like i'm going with the mini ledger board.

[pushkins]

How can a ledger look out of place, almost all decks have ledger boards for joist attachment, if you don't want a ledger then you need to put in some posts and run a bearer near the house for your joists to sit on or attach to with hangers.

[homebild]

Show us a framing plan of the deck you propose to build complete with joist sizes, spans, spacing of joists and posts and the type 'beams' you plan to use...

Only then might someone be able to help.

Not at all clear what you are otherwise attempting to do.

Thanks in advance.
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Otherwise beams and ledgers must typically be connected to block walls using through-bolts or threaded rods drilled through the foundation, fastened to the foundation using J-bolts grouted horizontally into the block, or the deck must be made free standing.

[DIY man]

Sorry! I hate it when people ask questions on forums like this and give little or no information and expect an answer. What are they thinking? Then after reading your replies and rereading my post I find I'm guilty. I'm almost embarassed.

I can't seem to upload a plan. I left my thumb drive at work and I had trouble even attaching the really basic plan I have here at home. What I'm building is a three level deck. I'm considering them 3 separate decks. This question only applies to deck #1. It is going to be 14' wide and come out 15'. This is constructed on the inside corner of the house. The traditional ledger board will be attached to the house on the 14' side. The 2x10 joist will run out 13', sit on a drop beam, then extend another 2'. This beam will be doubled 2x10's notched into a 6x6 post in the middle and one end spaced at 7'. On the other end is the house.

I'd rather not put a 6x6 close to the house and ideally would use a bracket. I've done the load calculations for the brackets, posts, joists, spans, and all that and this bracked would only be supporting 1623 PSF. It would be attached to a block wall, probably on the top block. Thru bolting would be possible.

I said the ledger would look out of place because i'm imagining a 1' 2x6 stuck to my wall with a bracket nailed to it. I may be wrong and it might not look that bad but it just seems like it would look like a patch job.

I hope this extra info helps.

[pushkins]

OK now I follow what your trying to do, thanks for the extra info.

The Simpson hanger you need is a LGUM210-2 (for 10" lumber) it bolts to your block wall.

[DIY man]

Yes the LGUM210-2 seems like a better option than the HU410. I like the 4 inches of support rather than 2 1/2 I get with the HU410. I don't know whay I didn't see it as it is on the very next page of the Simpson catalog.

However I'm still not grasping the "Not recommended for exposed exterior applications" for the HU410 and "Titan HD is not recommended for exposed exterior applications" on the LGUM installation instructions which say to use Titan HD anchors.

Also this is hollow block wall, does that make a defference?

[Wgoodrich]

The code actually does not say how to mount to a cement block wall. The code forbids mounting a ledger board to brick veneer. The code says to lag bolt the ledger board to wood such as your floor joist bandboard. The Code says you can embedded a bolt head into a poured concrete wall. Then the Code says other means of attaching a ledger board must be by accepted engineering practices. As far as I can find there is no rule about mounting to a cement block wall. Normally I have seen them bolted through the block using a big washer on the inside where the bolt enters the hole in the block. I see nothing in the Code accepting or rejecting anchors in a cement block wall. I suspect you could get dozens of answers to the proper way to mount to a cement block wall unless you consult an engineer you have no instructions on the subject.

Are you setting the planking of the flooring on top of the ledger board ? If so the ledger board would not be visable. If you are hanging off the side of the ledger board then you must use approved hangers to do so.

If your manufacturer advises against using a hanger in exposed areas then it is not galvanized or with other type protection from deteariating. The code requires products to be used per manufacturing instructions.

Hope this helps

Wg