View Full Version : Middle of the run switch
olydawg
April 21st, 2009, 02:50 PM
I'm new to doing DIY projects, but am close to finishing a workbench that I'm trying to wire four fluorescent lamps and a 60" power strip with I think 8 outlets to. I haven't installed it yet, but will be wiring a separate circuit for these using 12/2 cable (sufficient?). After reading the wiring book I bought, it doesn't specifically address the setup I'm trying to do (maybe for good reason).
Here's the setup I was thinking (perhaps this was my first mistake :0): the power would flow from the circuit panel to the switch box, then from there, I was hoping to run a line out the side of switch box to power the fluorescent lamps (connecting each of these with 14/2 cable?), while running another line out the bottom of the switch box to power the power strip I'll attach against the face of the bench. The book addressed a middle of the run scenario where power passes through the switch to a light fixture, or an outlet, but not two different fixtures. I have a single-pole switch, and in this scenario would the outlet be "powerless" when the switch is turned to off?
Sorry if these are elementary questions, or this is just a plain retarded idea, or what I've tried to describe doesn't make any sense, but hoping someone with experience can point me in the right direction.
Thanks,
Brad
Mr T
April 21st, 2009, 03:05 PM
Welcome.. The only dumb questions are the ones you dont ask.. Electricity is something that can kill people or burn your house down if mishandled...better to ask too many questions and to get help if you dont feel comfortable doing this.
I would recomend putting your lights on a different circuit then your workbench outlets if possible. It will reduce the effect of your lights flickering when you power up a larger power tool. However you are ok with both the lights and outlets on the same circuit. If you have a different existing circuit such as for garage lighting I would run the lights off it then run a new circuit if its possible for your outlets.
If you use 14 gauge wire anywhere on the circuit it needs to be protected by a 15 amp circuit. If you wire the circuit as you have originaly planned you will not be able to connect it to a 20 amp circuit unless you make the wiring to the lights 12 guage too.
Is this outlet strip designed to be wired up directly or does it have a cord and plug coming off of it? Is there a power rating for it listed anywhere? Also in a garage or unfinsihed basement setup you are required to have your outlets GFCI protected. If its a cord and plug strip just plug it into a GFCI outlet. If its direct wire then install a GFCI outlet upstream somewhere and connect the strip to the "load" screws. Lights do not need the protection.
Click on the switch/outlet button at the very top of this page and it will show you various light switch wiring layouts.
Good luck and post back with any other questions.
joed
April 21st, 2009, 04:47 PM
In the switch box.
Connect all the whites together.
Connect the supply black and the receptacle black together and to one of the switch terminals.
Connect the light black to the other switch terminal.
You need to use all #12 wire if you are connecting to a 20 amp breaker.
olydawg
April 21st, 2009, 10:28 PM
Thanks joed and Mr T, I appreciate your insight. I'll see if they have the power strip with a cord and plug, the one I purchased is to be hard wired, if not, I'll consider wiring a separate circuit for the workbench outlets. As for installing a GFCI upstream, would that be installed somewhere between the switch box and the power strip since the lights don't need GFCI protection?
Another silly question, you guys reference when it's appropriate to use a 15 amp or a 20 amp circuit, can you give me a short "Circuit Breaker 101" to understand what you're talking about? Does it have something to do with the gauge of the wire and it's ability to carry a certain amount of power?
Thanks again,
Brad
Mr T
April 22nd, 2009, 02:23 PM
I would personally go with one thats hard wired. It may look cleaner. For a upstream GFCI if you are going hardwired, just install a outlet somewhere ahead of the strip on the circuit. It could be near the panel or another area of the garage/basement. Use the load terminals for the rest of the circuit.
If you decide to go with it all on one circuit. Install a 2 gang box with a switch for the lights and a GFCI outlet. Take your incoming hot and connect it to the switch and the line side of the GFCI. Plug your strip into the GFCI or connect the strip to the LOAD side of the GFCI. in either case your lights will stay on when you trip the GFCI.
For the most part 12 gauge wire is good for a 20 amp circuit, 14 ga (smaller then 12 gauge) is good for a 15 amp circuit. Its safe to run a 15 amp circuit using 12 gauge wire but not the other way around as it would overload the smaller wire.. This is just general basics.. For the most part run 20amp circuits. Some people prefer to run lighting circuits on 15amp circuits/ 14 gauge because its easier to make the lighting connections and so all your lights arent on 1 circuit.
I would definatly run a 20a circuit for a workbench setup. it will let you run a vacuum and a larger saw at the same time.
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