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ironhat
June 12th, 2007, 08:49 AM
This is going to be a bit long so I hope you will all bare with me. I installed a doublewide for use as a cabin on a lot where well and septic already existed. I quickly noted that if I turned off the water heater the tepid water allowed bacterial growth and I got a sulfur dioxide stink that wouldn't leave until I shocked the entire system with bleach. Leaving the heater on eliminates this problem for the most part. There is also the issue of a great deal of sediment and iron in the water. I let the frost-proof line near the well run for an hour to purge the pump and the well any time we go there. The pressure tank resides 50 yards away and in the ground below frost level inside a 4 foot corrugated culvert (standing upright) and is covered with a piece of 4" foam (inside the culvert and about a foot below ground level) and a piece of plywood covered with tarps.

I belive that I will need to install a UV purifier on a flow switch so that it isn't being wasted the 95% of the time that we aren't there, and a sediment filter inside this piece of pipe. (I can't tell you the bacteria count because every time we go up over a weekend the turn around time to the lab exceeds the 24 hour limit they have placed on performing tests on the sample.) The reason none of this has been switched to inside the house is that there isn't space for it in the doublewide. The issue is primarily accessing this set up for changing the filters. OK, I said it was going to be long but I'm finally to the questions.

1. Is the UV light on a flow switch a good idea?

2. What micron sized filter should I be considering? I'm not too fussy - the water doesn't taste bad and the neighbors, for the most part, don't filter theirs so I don't want to have a veeeery fine filter which is going to plug frequently. Heck, the neighbors don't even treat for bacteria but 'bugs' bug me. Mostly I;m trying to prevent buildup in the plumbing and staining of the fixtures. When we spend a week there there is no tendency to stain and the sediment stops.

3. Can anyone think of an easier access into this culvert short of digging it out of the ground and building a block building below grade with a basement door into the room (I may have just hit on the logical answer!?). It's mostly a money issue but I do most of my own home repairs, etc, so I'm not afraid of some work.

If you come up with anything I haven't considered just chime in,
Later,
Chiz

Gary Slusser
June 18th, 2007, 05:26 PM
UV lights have a number of minimum water quality parameters tha tmust be met ot they don't work. One is iron, another too much hardness, and H2S (sulfur) etc..

A flow switch is a terrible choice and will not allow the UV light to work properly. I've sold a number of water treatment systems around the country for your type situation. You need to talk to me or someone locally that is experienced in this before you do anything. Buying online and installing it yourself saves tons of bucks.

Andy CWS
December 26th, 2008, 06:40 AM
UV lights can be very effective as a disinfection device. UVs are designed to remain on at all times. Most bulbs have a 9000 hour life to them before replacement is recommended. UV bulbs need a 'warm up' period so attaching it to a flow meter is not good idea.

If you want to save power and turn it off when you leave, then turn it on and wait about half an hour before using water. If you have a NSF Sytandard-55 Class-A type, there will be fail-safe devices including llight intensity and water clarity.

Class-A system recommend an absolute 5-micron prefilter to assure wate clarity. There are other important parameters needed to work properly. There is also a RO available with a virus and bacteria filter (NSF P-231) or UV lights.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II

joed
December 26th, 2008, 01:11 PM
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