Chlorinator Problem

[bucsfan]

I have a liquid chlorinator hooked into my water supply line. I am having problems with water backing up into the chlorine tank and diluting the chlorine and the level in the tank isn't dropping. I am renting a new home and have had the water softner installer out here numerous times and each time he comes up with a different excuse and claims it is fixed. The way it is hooked into the system is as follows. there is a pressure switch installed at the pressure tank. this switch controls a pump on the chlorine tank. the chlorine line from the pump is hooked into the water system before a check valve and just before the junction for water supply to the sprinkler system. is this the correct hookup and if so what could be causing the water to backup into the chlorine tank?

[Gary Slusser]

I have a liquid chlorinator hooked.... I am having problems with water backing up into the chlorine tank and diluting the chlorine and the level in the tank isn't dropping. The way it is hooked into the system is as follows. there is a pressure switch installed at the pressure tank. this switch controls a pump on the chlorine tank. the chlorine line from the pump is hooked into the water system before a check valve and just before the junction for water supply to the sprinkler system. is this the correct hookup and if so what could be causing the water to backup into the chlorine tank?

Is the check valve on the house side or the well side of the pressure tank and switch? And why a check valve on the house side?

If the check is for the irrigation, then IMO it should be in the line after the tee for the irrigation, not on the main line before the tee.

My guess it that the problem you have is due to a bad ball check valve inside the injector of the solution feeder; the part that connects the chlorinator to the plumbing. It should be pointing up into the bottom of the water line. It will be a dirty or bad ball and/or ball socket allowing seepage at the max water pressure or lower back through the pump into the solution tank. Are you sure the water is backing up adding water to the solution tank OR... the solution isn't being sucked out of the solution tank?

What does he do, or has he done, to 'fix' the problem?

If the check valve and injector is on the well side of the pressure tank/switch, he needs to put it on the house side of the check valve and best would be on the house side/outlet of the pressure tank. Then a properly sized for the house retention tank. Using the pressure tank as retention is not good for bladder type pressure tanks.

If the solution pump isn't using (sucking) solution, check for problems with the injector but.. it could be the higher pressure on the well side of the check valve preventing the injection because the solution pump can't overcome the higher pressure.

[bucsfan]

the Injector is on the well side of the check valve and before the t junction for the irrigation system. the irrigation system has a backflow setup on that line. the first time he said there was a problem with the check valve, he states that the manufacturer didn't install it or something to that fact. he's come back several times and the last time he said that the o-ring was missing, I guess where the injector hooks into the supply line. It has to be water backing up into the tank, because the level had dropped when he came and supposedly repaired it, but then the level went up again because I had marked the tank with a sharpie at the chlorine level. He supposedly owns a water softner company. Also I know that the chlorine is getting diluted because I can litterly put my head near the opening of the tank and the smell doen't bother me. the check valve is before the pressure tank and after the T junction for the irrigation. the pressure switch is for the chlorine injector. the pump for the well is at the well, I guess in the ground

[Gary Slusser]

I still don't have a clear picture of your setup. You have a well, the pressure switch and pressure tank is at the well? Then the line to the house and this injector? Then a switch? The check valve, the tee?

Draw me a verbal picture exactly of how this is plumbed with all the various parts in order from the well to the fixtures. Where the switch you call the pressure switch is ect.. That sounds like a flow switch not a pressure switch. Is there a retention tank after the injector etc..

If you are injecting straight chlorine/bleach, that may be part of the problem with parts missing. Chlorine would ruin the injector ball spring and maybe an o-ring or plug up the injector so it can reseal.

[bucsfan]

I'll try the best I can to explain the system. It goes as follows. The wellis in the back yard with an electrical box on top of it. which means it has an inground pump. the supply line goes to the side of the house. Before it comes out of the ground the injector from the pump that sits on top of the chlorinator pump is hooked in. After that there is a T in-line. Off of the T a supply line goes to the irrigation station. In this line there is a baclflow setup with 2 shutoff valves. then after the T, I assume that it is a check valve because on it shows a flow arrow. After the check valve the pressure tank (Amtrol) is hooked into the supply line with a steel T. At the T there is a pressure gauge, a faucet and a pressure switch. The pressure switch has three electrcal connections. the first is the supply from a switch on the sidewall of the house. then one line goes into conduit underground(I assume to the electrical box on top of the well) and the other line goes to the pump sitting on top of the chlorinator tank. After this T the supply line goes to the in side of the regeneration head. then out goes to the house. I hope this helps. As far as the chlorine, the guy told us to use liquid pool chlorine.

[Gary Slusser]

The retention time using the main line and then the pressure tank is way to small, or short time wise. So I do not see how this system can be doing much for you although I don't recall/know why you are using chlorine to start with.

Pool chlorine should never be used for potable water treatment, it contains certain things that are not good for you.

I suggest you find another dealer.

[bucsfan]

This guy told us, it is to cut out the sulfur smell. that's why we've had him come back about 7 times, because the odor comes and goes. I guess we're going to have to call the landlord and let him know. I can't believe this guy told us to use pool chlorine. thanks for all you help, I appreciate it.

[Gary Slusser]

Pool chlorine has additives/inhibitors to protect it in an outdoor environment open to air and sunlight to keep it in the pool water. None of which is needed in a potable water system. And the chlorine is a different type than used in potable water. And if those guys want to argue, tell them to search the web and read up on the subject or read a lable on pool chlorine or Clorox bleach.

[suemarkp]

There are different kinds of pool chlorine. The basic ones are calcium hypochlorite (granular) and sodium hypochlorite (liquid). Perhaps there are other things in these, but I thought that was it. You're usually warned not to use these on a regular basis because they dissipate too fast (you'd be adding it every day). These are for water shocking.

The other types of pool chlorine (the stabilized versions) have a long complicated chemical name, but it either starts with di- or tri- and has a chlor in it. These are either granular or pressed into pucks or cylinders. Those have cyanuric acid in them to help retain the chlorine level in sunlight. Sometimes the di/tri types have other things to improve clarity, kill algae, etc. I'd definitely avoid the di/tri types for drinking water.

I would expect pool liquid sodium hypochlorite to be just like chlorox, but much more concentrated. Is chlorox OK, or do you really need one intended for drinking water?

[Gary Slusser]

Recalling I'm only the messenger.

If we read the label on a bottle of Clorox we see a caution: Not to be used for water treatment.

The FDA approves certain chlorine pellets for potable water treatment. To my knowledge only those chlorine pellets are approved for water treatment use.

There are a lot of unidentified ingredients in 'bleach' and I suspect in other types of liquid chlorine and the strongest solution I know of is 21% sodium hypochlorite. Those pellets I mentioned are calcium hypochlorite.

[Andy CWS]

I prefer hydrogen peroxide over bleach or pellets. it's chemical make up lends to a very efficient oxidizer. It is more expensive but has some advantages over chlorine.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II

[Gary Slusser]

Hydrogen peroxide is difficult for a homeowner to find in the quantity needed for a solution feeder, it is much more expensive than chlorine, it's more dangerous than chlorine and, it doesn't do well for the treatment of reducing types of bacteria.

[joed]

Old thread.

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