View Full Version : craftsman drill
geechj
December 11th, 2006, 10:49 AM
has anyone had bad experiences with the craftsman drill trigger switch going out? I'm attempting to replace it myself (half the cost of the drill itself). I borrowed the drill (hammer drill). I'm the first to use it since it was purchased and the warranty is already expired. If it was mine I think I'd toss it, but we'll see how a replacement goes. I've had people tell me this switch problem is common for craftsman. I have a couple other craftsman drills and have not yet encountered this problem.
CraigFL
December 12th, 2006, 05:07 AM
If this is a drill with the variable speed trigger(the further you push, the higher the speed), mine went out shortly after the warranty expired too. I just jumpered the connection so I get full speed all the time and use it only for my secondary drill-- for concrete & hard, occasional use...
geechj
December 12th, 2006, 09:40 AM
I'm awaiting the part. ARe you saying i could have the part returned (as it costs half the price of the dumb drill)? I have the drill torn apart right now. how did you do the wire jumping?
redbandit
December 13th, 2006, 06:28 PM
i cant say on the trigger, but every single craftsman drill ive ever owend, the chuck was a POS. Ive had several and on each one sometimes the bit would just fall right out, Ive known several people who say the same thing. I dont buy them, people usually give them to me for a gift. I dont have the heart to tell them I would rather just save up and get a good one.
geechj
December 13th, 2006, 09:24 PM
Well i received the new trigger/switch and put it in. Plugged it in and nothing. I guess it wasn't the switch. I wouldn't monkey with it, but i borrowed it and was hoping to be able to take care of it. If anyone has any input as to what may be wrong i'd appreciate it. The drill is basically new with use of about 30 holes drilled. It just all of a sudden quit working. It wasn't being over-worked either.
thanks.
sloooo
December 13th, 2006, 10:34 PM
Get a meter and place it on the leads going to the motor. Press the button and see if you have voltage at the motor. I don't know what voltage the drill is, but whatever the drill voltage is will be the same as the incomming voltage. Just make sure you have your meter on V- for DC power and V~ for AC power. If you don't have power, you need to check power through the drill to see where you lost power. If you do have power at the motor and it's not working, check your motor brushes. If they are OK and you can turn the chuck by hand, you have a bad motor.
geechj
December 15th, 2006, 06:50 AM
Learn by error: I should have done this to start with, but based off of input from a guy at Sears (and my lacking in looking it over myself) I found the problem last night. I used a continuity tester and was getting current through all the wires to the motor. While standing there shining a flashlight and scratching my head, I could see a scarred wire underneath a bunch of stuff in the casing. It looked like when the drill was made, one of the wires was positioned too close to a wire terminal, resulting in the terminal to melt the wire that was touching it and shorting the drill out. I took a little electrical tape, patched the scar, and soldered up the terminal connection –and the drill now works. Still too much “monkeying” around for a practically new drill.
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