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darnallj
November 3rd, 2006, 05:28 AM
Can anyone give me any insight as what I would need to do to fix this


Not so worried about te sub flooring tounge and groove as it has plywood and the hardwood on top of it

Wgoodrich
November 4th, 2006, 06:33 AM
You need to first attack the cause of the rot then repair the rot. I can not see where the finished earth grade is outside distance from this untreated wood nor can I attest to seasonal high water table or moisture in the crawl space. However moisture is a problem from somewhere. I see no ventilation in this crawl space. YOu need to confirm at least 8" from the finished earth grade on the outside from teh untreated wood. Then you need to confirm at least 1 vent for every 150 square feet of crawl space. Then you need a vapor barrier installed over the earth on the crawl floor. You also need insulation installed around the perimeter of your crawl space suggesting styrofoam rated in R value for your specific area.

Then looking at the beam where the floor joists are mortised in it shows some damage. If this is rotted enough for a concern then you will not only have to replace not only the rotted sill but the rotted beam and probably using joist hangers to replace any rotted morticed floor joist tongues that are rotted.

The floor you say your are not concerned about is a concern. You have a friend that has a cold and is coughing. You shy from them because you can be infected. Same works with wood rotted wood infects good wood. You will soon be experincing rotted plywood due to not having removed the existing rotted floor.

To replace the sill plate and / or beam you will need to install some cement pads in the crawl space then use a 4x4 as a temporary support both horizontal and vertical in the crawl. I would nail a 2x10 or better yet 2x12 about 6' long on the corner of the house on the outside sticking that board out beyond the corner of the house. Then use a bottle jack to jack up the house. Then install posts and the 4x4 in the crawl under the floor joists and bearing walls supporting the house for safety. then I would start ripping out the rotted wood and replacing with treated lumber. If you have a rotted beam above the rotted sill plate once you have temporarily supported the house in teh crawl to ensure safety you can use a chain saw to cut out the rotted beam then stack treated 2 by lumber stacked to equal the thickness of the beam your are replacing. Replace the rotted sill and the rotted beam etc. Then set the house back down on the new product. Remember when you jack up this house you may experience some damage to the walls inside causing cracking that will need to be repaired once the building is reset.

The floor you show in the picture was installed before the outside walls were installed. This rotted tongue and groove is allowing those existing walls to settle also causing damage. You need to rip up your floor plywood. Then rip up the rotted tongue and groove flooring working out the rotted flooring under the outside wall and replace with 3/4" plywood sliding under that outside perimeter bearing wall to ensure no further damage occurs and to eliminate contamination of that rotted wood to more undamaged wood. You may find some rotted floor joists that are rotted about 1" at the top. This can be filled in by using treated 1 by lumber flat or sistering 2 by lumber on the side of those floor joists. Then install your good 3/4" plywood flooring.

That should give you a start good luck

Wg

darnallj
November 5th, 2006, 07:41 AM
Thanks for the info WG, We started the project yesterday by placing 4 concret block pads along the joists about 4 foot back for the outside wall and shim up the to the joist with a 4x4 and shims. Tyhen we jacked the done the same thing about 2 foot back from the outside wall, and lifted the corner off the house. We then removed 12' of rotted sill plate on one side and 6' on the other side, we have sistered two joists that were cracked, the first picture i posted that shows the joist where the end look rotted, wasn't rotted it was notched to allow for the sill plate bolt which was a suprise since I thought it was rotted, we then removed from the inside the rotted tounge and grrove, for about a 4 foot long span than covered 2 joists. replaceed those from underneath the house using 1by 3 shims hammered into place might not be the best method but the floor there seems solid all lumber used was pressure treated, we then replaced the 2x8 band board and the 1x3 tounge and grove wall board and then replaced the siding we left the 4x4 piers under the house as added support to the joists, Also you mentioned vapor barrier it has a 6 mil plastice vapor barrier, which was installed 2 years ago during termite inspection, Also It does have adequate vents there is a vent about 3 foot back from the problem area jsut didn't get that in the picture, I think the main problem might have started as termite damage as there were soe signs of dirt paths going up the blocks which was checked yesterday and there are no termites present. the dirt crawl space was dry to the touch I dug down maybe 6-8 inches still felt dry, From the looks of everything I would same the damage was rather old since none of the wood was wet to the touch. Only thing I could think of is there is a outside faucet about 4 foot away theat looked like the copper had been repiared at one time maybe it broke and started breaking down the untreated wood. in the room above the messed up area the floor is now back even with the trim molding maybe it will last 20-30 years

Wgoodrich
November 5th, 2006, 01:44 PM
What you found and what I saw is the difference of pictures and being there. Sounds like you had a good plan already.

Congrats

Wg:party: