d-cubed
October 29th, 2006, 12:12 PM
I have owned a twenty-year-old colonial for just under two years. Before buying, I saw, and the inspection showed, a repair to the sill plate and rim joist that, allegedly, had rotted due to poor grade on the masonry front steps. The replaced section of sill was evident in the inspection; it was limited to the 6-8 feet under the front door.
Recently, I pulled down some insulation in the basement ceiling to find a wet, rotting rim joist, floor joists (perpendicular to wall) and subflooring. Obviously the problem was not adequately repaired by the previous owner. I suspect that I have a leak in my roof that has dripped down to the sill. I dont know if the previous owner had this problem and thought it was the steps, or if it truly was just the steps. In any case, I am replacing the roofing (original) and searching for evidence of water migration.
My questions involve the repair to the sill area. The previous repair involved the replacing of 6-8 feet of sill plate (regular lumber) with pressure treat. Good. The previous repairer also 'attempted' to sister the floor joists. Good intention, bad execution for two reasons. 1. The sistering joists do not extend to the center beam. 2. The sill plate was notched about 1/4" under each of the floor joists in the repaired section (original unrotted, and new sistered). Evidently, the repairer did not want to jack the house to allow proper joist replacement.
Now the questions (finally):
I would like to sister the floor joists properly. I am thinking that I should run new joists from the sill to the center beam (about 12' span). Is this correct?If so, how do I most easily do this?
I need to replace the rim joist (and likely sheathing). How do I most easily do this?
I have thought of jacking the 8' of wall from inside the basement with several floor jacks and a beam. My problem using this approach would be getting adequate clearance between the beam and the floor to install the new joists.
I have seen some jobs where they jack the wall from the outside at the top of the first floor to lift the wall off of the foundation.This would seem to allow the proper unloading of the sill plate area and give adequate clearance for adding sistering joists. It also, however, seems to be a lot more complicated and expensive.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I do have photos if that would be helpful.
d-cubed
PS. I am sure that some of you might be compelled to let me know that I should have looked into the repair more thoroughly before I bought the house. Believe me, I have certainly beat myself up pretty well for missing the chance to rectify the issue BEFORE signing the check.
Recently, I pulled down some insulation in the basement ceiling to find a wet, rotting rim joist, floor joists (perpendicular to wall) and subflooring. Obviously the problem was not adequately repaired by the previous owner. I suspect that I have a leak in my roof that has dripped down to the sill. I dont know if the previous owner had this problem and thought it was the steps, or if it truly was just the steps. In any case, I am replacing the roofing (original) and searching for evidence of water migration.
My questions involve the repair to the sill area. The previous repair involved the replacing of 6-8 feet of sill plate (regular lumber) with pressure treat. Good. The previous repairer also 'attempted' to sister the floor joists. Good intention, bad execution for two reasons. 1. The sistering joists do not extend to the center beam. 2. The sill plate was notched about 1/4" under each of the floor joists in the repaired section (original unrotted, and new sistered). Evidently, the repairer did not want to jack the house to allow proper joist replacement.
Now the questions (finally):
I would like to sister the floor joists properly. I am thinking that I should run new joists from the sill to the center beam (about 12' span). Is this correct?If so, how do I most easily do this?
I need to replace the rim joist (and likely sheathing). How do I most easily do this?
I have thought of jacking the 8' of wall from inside the basement with several floor jacks and a beam. My problem using this approach would be getting adequate clearance between the beam and the floor to install the new joists.
I have seen some jobs where they jack the wall from the outside at the top of the first floor to lift the wall off of the foundation.This would seem to allow the proper unloading of the sill plate area and give adequate clearance for adding sistering joists. It also, however, seems to be a lot more complicated and expensive.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I do have photos if that would be helpful.
d-cubed
PS. I am sure that some of you might be compelled to let me know that I should have looked into the repair more thoroughly before I bought the house. Believe me, I have certainly beat myself up pretty well for missing the chance to rectify the issue BEFORE signing the check.